Jump to content
SAU Community

Replacing The Stereo Wiring In A S1 R33

HappyPuppy

By HappyPuppy,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

HappyPuppy Enthusiast

HappyPuppy

Posted
Posted

Ok, I'm sick of the crappy speakers in the front door and the lack of any other speakers! So I'm planning to put in 6" in the stock holes and maybe a removable sub box in the boot. Now while I'm at it I figured I'd replace the standard stereo cabling with something that has more shielding (probably coax).

Has anyone done this before, and if so how big a job is it?

- are the wires run internally? do I have to pull up the interior floor to get at them?

- are the wires fixed in any way? - am I able to just tie the new wire to the old wire and just pull it through? [don't laugh this works really well on yachts :-) ]

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

Not too long. If you're good, you can do it in a day easily. That being said, I got my installer to do it

(FHRX, who is also on the forums - blatant plug: if you need some work done in Sydney, go speak to Marty!)

The stock door wiring doesn't run straight through, it uses body plugs. ie you can't pull it through without some fiddling around. Easier to just run new wiring through another grommet which is about half way down your door, and pull through that.

To access the wiring going to the back of the car, you just need to rip out the back seats and the remove the door sills to expose if (you can follow it back).

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

It really depends on what you want: how fancy the system is, any special features you want, sound deadening (usually recommended), etc - the more complicated, the more you'll pay. But he's not expensive by any means.

Obviously the best way to get a quote is to drop in and see him, but you can also send him an email or give him a call.

Vijay

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...