Max Power With Rb20det Stock Ecu And Inj

[1400r]

whats the max rwkw I could make with the standard factory tune Im only hoping to make 170ish safely for the moment till I get a remap and bigger inj and whats the max boost you would run with the standard ecu I was thinking around 1 bar or less assuming I get it on the dyno to check the fuel ratio's are ok.

[Sydneykid]

whats the max rwkw I could make with the standard factory tune Im only hoping to make 170ish safely for the moment till I get a remap and bigger inj and whats the max boost you would run with the standard ecu I was thinking around 1 bar or less assuming I get it on the dyno to check the fuel ratio's are ok.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My guess 140 rwkw, the standard ECU mapping, at much more than standard airflow, has very rich A/F ratios and quite retarded ignition. Plus it will start to run out of injector flow at around 155rwkw and the standard fuel pump is not capable of much more.

cheers

Edited August 24, 2005 by Sydneykid

[1400r]

thanks sydneykid I have got a walbro pump in though would that make much difference?

[Cubes]

I'm running an external bosch pump.

Via a PFC afr's are tuned to a flat 12:1.

I am making 176rwkw the injectors are running at 92%.

A few more rev's past peak power see's the injectors hitting 100% to hold a flat 12:1 AFR.

Some may be able to achieve more power, I'd say its more related to the dyno reading as mine wasn't done in shootout mode.

Generally Shootout mode reads a little higher.

176rwkw from the stock rb20det turbo I think is around the mark, I doubt there is any more in it realistically.

Remember I am running a better flowing head as the turbo is on the rb30det. To make similiar power with the rb20det you will need around 15psi.

Edited August 24, 2005 by Cubes

[CEF11E]

I made 175 on the stock air flow meter and injectors with out a FPR but with a walbro and it was 12:1 up high in the rev range. I never measured duty cycle. it would have been dead near 100%. That was with an ECU remap.

I also made a shade under 200 with stock injectors, AFM but with bigger fuel pump and FPR

messy fueling tho:)

[1400r]

Thanks why does the dyno stop at around 5,500 rpm if you dont mind me asking the curve looks like it might be leveling out is that why? Its just my car seems to keep pulling all the way to the rev limiter I have rev'ed it that hard for fear of blowing something up. What boost were you running

Edited August 25, 2005 by 1400r

[Cubes]

With regards to fuel pumps.

It pays to check the voltage at the pump. I checked mine a few minutes ago.

11.1v using the supplied earth at WOT.

11.68v using the chassis as the earth at WOT.

~12.6v at idle. Still a little low, it should be what the battery is, 13.8v.

I'll be running a wire from the battery to the fuel pump via a relay within the next couple of days.

Also checked my gtr injectors. 2.13 ohms, all exactly equal, which is a good thing.

Edited August 25, 2005 by Cubes

[1400r]

Well got my 32 on the dyno today made 170rwkw on 11psi AFR was in the low 10's.

Very rich Im told morpowa dude used a bleeder on my adjustable fuel reg to see how it would respond to leaner ratio's he got it up into the 11's very floaty ratio's though made an extra 5kw. It was running less than stock pressure Im told 32psi mine was on 29psi fuel pressure

He then advanced the timing from stockish to 20 or so degree's ended up making 179.7 yippee not basically gotta get fcd, remap or FC it's still a laggy beast it wasnt hit peak boost 10psi till the very top of third gear. Im alot happier with the wau it drives now though with the extra timing

Im thinking the hks adjustable wastegate may be able to be tightened up a little more as I thought they were supposed to run 12 psi standard.This may help it build boost quicker but it is already alot tighter than the standard wastegate

Something is wrong with the turbo or the wastegate I reckon it should really hit peak boost alot earlier and then hold it to redline. theres a small dip on the boost curve to at around .5 bar . Im going to show my boss tomorow and see what he thinks.

Anyway there goes the whole "stock inj running out at 155 rwkw" thing guys as mine was running less than stock FP, stock Inj, stock comp and was still very rich at 170 so I think once sorted I should be able to make over 200rwkw with my current combo and remap or fc

I wish I could work out how to post up scanned images up Im on 56k so it takes for ever for it to tell me to get stuffed

[1400r]

first dyno pic

[1400r]

second dyno pic

[1400r]

I had a chat with my boss today and from that I worked out that the hks actuator needed to be a lot tighter than the factory one so I fixed it up and boost(.9 bar) now hit real hard at 3,500 rpm (2 nd gear)

The cars now making enough air flow to hit the factory fuel cut on 3rd gear role on's at just over 3,500 however boost was spiking to 1 bar as it was damn cold.

Funny thing was after two go's at the cut on the third go (to show a guy in a ceffy on the way home) it didnt cut so I tried again still didnt cut?

any ideas?

[Cubes]

Mine used to cut when the motor was fairly cold, it took a good 20minute drive or so in cold conditions for it not to cut.

This was running 1.1bar on the stock turbo, same thing it would cut in third but at around 4500rpm.

[Cubes]

1400r,

Now I know you are in SA.

You should head down to the Boostworx dyno day. $25.

I've had mine on boostworx dyno with stock frp, bosch pump and can only manage 176rwkw with 92% duty holding a 12:1afr.

Running the stock actuator pressure with no bleeder boost peaks to 12psi then quickly tails off to 9psi where it makes peak power.

Its got a rb30 bottom end and rb25 head (that flows damn well) under the bonnet, but it is still running all the stock rb20det gear. Turbo, injectors etc.

Re: Injectors - I'm aware dyno's read differently, mine also wasn't run in shootout mode.

Not running in shootout mode generally yields a slightly less power reading.

I've seen as high as 30rwkw difference between shootout mode and non shootout mode, 30rwkw more being the shootout mode.

In non shootout mode 3yrs ago when Tim owned RPM my rb20det running the stock turbo at 1bar, 17degree's ignition timing and a bleeder on the fpr made 164rwkw. non-shoot out mode.

Nice power, very linear and looks as if it wouldn't have too many troubles loosing traction. Sounds strange not loosing traction being a good thing but I wish mine was linear, my first is useless as is second half the time depending on road surface.

The run attached was done in 4th, compare road speeds and you will see what I mean. Obviously I don't have much top end sped as the small turbo restricts revs to around 5000-5500rpm.

I'm eventually going a xr6 turbo, it should be all in by 3800rpm and making ~10psi by 3000rpm so it will be linear and a little laggy which is good for fuel economy.

I've attached a dyno run scan.

The dip in the torque curve after it peaks was a little wheel spin.

I was happy with the $100 tune.

Hope to see u at the dyno day.

Edited December 3, 2008 by Cubes

[1400r]

Thanks Cubes I would like to get it on the dyno again now that the boost is coming on earlier. Ive just started a new job though and will be working most Saturdays but I'll see what I can do. Lag is a good thing most of the time but I was getting sick of running people(r33 and a statesman the other day) and having them drive past me while waiting for boost sucked. 10psi at 3,000 rpm sounds good on that dyno run I didnt hit 10 psi till almost 7,000 rpm

[Sydneykid]

I'm running an external bosch pump.

Via a PFC afr's are tuned to a flat 12:1.

I am making 176rwkw the injectors are running at 92%.

A few more rev's past peak power see's the injectors hitting 100% to hold a flat 12:1 AFR.

Some may be able to achieve more power, I'd say its more related to the dyno reading as mine wasn't done in shootout mode.

Generally Shootout mode reads a little higher.

176rwkw from the stock rb20det turbo I think is around the mark, I doubt there is any more in it realistically.

Remember I am running a better flowing head as the turbo is on the rb30det. To make similiar power with the rb20det you will need around 15psi.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Have you checked your fuel pressure? Standard is 36-38psi, with a big flow fuel pump I have seen the fuel pressure lift to well over 40 psi. I figure it's the standard FPR not being able to bypass enough fuel to lower the pressure. Either that or the response to higher than standard boost from the standard FPR is not linear. A quick fuel pressure check will confirm it.

I have seen cars show less power in ShootOut Mode, this is on days when the temperatures (inlet and ambient air) are lower than the ShootOut Mode medium. So it lowers the power output to compensate for the increased actual power from the lower temperatures. Which is exactly what it is supposed to do.

cheers

[Cubes]

I know of one person that ran their car on racepace's dyno in shoot out mode and non-shootout. Shoot out mode was 10% higher, ambient and inlet temps being 25.

I've also done a bit of googling and there has been a few other ppls observe the 10% higher thing.

I'm about to bolt a slight larger turbo on so I will have mine run back to back in shootout and non-shoot out mode to see for myself if there is indeed that 10% difference others have observed under normal at and it temps.

I will also fiddle with moving the IT temp sensor to see how much of a difference it really makes.

I haven't had fuel pressure checked. Apparently Shauns new dyno reads lower than his last, its roughly where the injectors max out, it didn't suprise Shaun at all.

That being said it has also been mentioned that its not that shootout mode reads higher, just more accurate.

Still.. if that is correct that means my stock rb20det turbo made 193rwkw on 9psi. It does sound a little far fetched.

I'll get mine on the dyno and sort out this nonshootout vs shootout for my own sanity. lol

Edited September 18, 2005 by Cubes

[huddy]

Thanks Cubes I would like to get it on the dyno again now that the boost is coming on earlier. Ive just started a new job though and will be working most Saturdays but I'll see what I can do. Lag is a good thing most of the time but I was getting sick of running people(r33 and a statesman the other day) and having them drive past me while waiting for boost sucked. 10psi at 3,000 rpm sounds good on that dyno run I didnt hit 10 psi till almost 7,000 rpm

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

so you tightened the actuator and it made boost come on earlier... wot if... i put a kink in the actuator line on mine to make it tighter... would this make a similar sortof affect? (kila32 - kelly said possibly try this) ?

[1400r]

I'd say give it a go seeing as you have a spare actuator although mine still only hits .7 bar at around 3,500 before climbing to .9 bar at 5,000 rpm (2nd gear) whats yours like now? when you drove softy's ceffy did it feel much different. Ring me if you want you can take my car for a blat and see what you think? BD4's did advertise the hks acutators for $218 in one of my old mags so its not a lot of money to buy one of those instead?

[Lithius]

Hey buddy you're running a 2530 with an untuned factory ECU?

[1400r]

yes, yes I am why? afr are in the 10's it should be fine