Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just looked at auction reports and not many marks, came through 5 times so I assume who ever bought it for you didnt want you to pay too much and pay what the seller wants.

You will need standard, wheels, exhaust, suspension and some minor panel work, nothing to much.

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah, I knew about the fact that it went through 5 times. J Spec were my brokers, fantstic job they did aswell :)

I NEED those STANDARD Parts! Anyone with any ideas or suggestions PLEASE PLEASE Post! :D:)

UPDATE : Suspension is half way there thanks to Sydneykid. Just need some standard fron springs.

Wheels are fine, we just need to source some R33 GTST rims.

If you can help with these parts post here or PM me

Cheers

Chris :P

Spoke to previous owner and he actually had 2 complete sets of stocker suspension, but he binned it all age ago unfortunatly, sorry :D

Oh ok, thats a bit of a shame. Thanks for finding out for me though Ska ;)

Just because I can I'm going to post what I think my Stag will look like with the 260rs Bodykit

Now:

MyStag2.jpg

Then:

MyStag260rsfront2.jpg

Still I'm not a real fan of the colour. I think I might change it. We will se how the dough fines out.

I have figured out that I will have around 6 grand to spend on the Stag by the time I get my P's. What should I spend it on?

6k.

well, put it ALL aside and get a manual conversion + PFC

Otherwise if no power target

Split dump/front

High flow cat

jap brand cat back (order now..it will take a while)

DFA and IEBC

Sydney kids FULL suspension set up

then splash the other 1k on some decent tyres and some other little goodies you may want...

Heres what I came up with -

- 260rs Bodykit

- Re Spray (Standard Colours)

- Racing Seats

- Black velor re-trim

- GTT Side IC

- Jaycar Gear (Boost controller etc.)

- CGC High Flow

- Tuning

- Cam gears

- Auto Trans Cooler

- Auto Vavle Body Upgrade

So thats it, I think it added up to around $5950 or something like that. What sought of power/400m times could I achieve with this set up?

(Remember that the car already has Exhaust, Coilovers, Mags)

Cheers,

Chris :O

Forgot it already had mods

Well in the end, it really depends what you want

Look in the thread "Get a stagea into the 13's"

The way SK talks about it, if you have a target power, get parts for that target power and dont spend top dollar

The way I said was, spend top dollar on parts, and have a power target but be aware that if you want more, you wont have to change the parts to better ones...

Sooooo

I mean, you seem to not be like me and have no power target but just want more power and handling and not care about looks.

1. If exhaust isnt turbo back, get frontpipe/dump and cat (big power gains there, and bottle neck for everything else)

2. Make sure to include caster bushes and sway bars in your list, they make a BIG difference (i can only speak about swaybars for now)

3. If your going to get a cooler, i would suggest to consider a front mount. GTR cooler with custom pipes (unless GTT cooler is fine for you (~200awkw))

Else, good luck with the car :O

Thanks AlexCim, had a look at the thread and am now left wondering, if I was to go for the GTR intercooler, what are its limits? How many kw's atw's can be obtained from it? :)

Edited by Stagea RS-Four

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...