Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How easy is it to install the R33 GTR 3-gauge cluster (boost, oil temp and front torque) in a Stagea?

Has anyone done it?

Where would you hook up the lines for it? (Boost is obvious, but oil temp not so and front torque no idea)

I have seen a couple for sale here in NZ and think it would be nice to do if it is possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85511-r33-gtr-3-gauge-cluster/
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

G'day, I was under the bonnet of my new toy (s2) the other day and noticed a little sender hanging of the oil filter neck, I have been told that is the oil temp sender. Have see any clusters for sale lately? I would like to fit one. Cheers. Jason.

I've seen pics of them installed in place of the factory stereo, and from what i've seen, they fit alright.

I have looked at a circuit diagram of the ATTESSA system, but from an R32. I have been told that the R33 system is slightly different and the torque split gauge hooks up to different numbered pins.

I would only get one if it is not too much hassle to electrically hook up, as for fitting it in the slot, I'm sure I'd find a way.

I have not seen any for sale for a while. They appear every now and again on the Trademe site here in NZ (www.trademe.co.nz).

Edited by sy300

Well, yes, everyone can find a way, why dont you just buy seperate gauges and then fit them in the DIN slot, like i will be.

Maybe just you want the split gauge? I am sure you can somehow make something at home that will tell you that, im sure its just a voltage output from the ECU telling the atessa how much split to use, therefore just use a voltmeter and convert that to %'s

My theory at least...

Good luck with it, let us know :P

Well, yes, everyone can find a way, why dont you just buy seperate gauges and then fit them in the DIN slot, like i will be.

Maybe just you want the split gauge? I am sure you can somehow make something at home that will tell you that, im sure its just a voltage output from the ECU telling the atessa how much split to use, therefore just use a voltmeter and convert that to %'s

My theory at least...

Good luck with it, let us know :)

with comments like that u should be in an old 202 carby kingswood hahaha :lol:

I dont understand why the output would be anymore complex then that?

BTW, what did you do about your interior brad, after the manual conversion? Was it a chop job?

GTR cluster

usedgtrgauges.jpg

Stagea stereo frame

104su.jpg

i had more serious problems to sort than console surrounds hehe :) but yes i have just used it without the centre gearstick surround in and it got noisy as, so i cut up the auto surround dodgy style and covered it.

ill sort it in the distant future but im not too worried as people wont care about a missing console surround :lol:

Thats it mate, thats it!

At the moment I cant afford anything more then my boost gauge so i have a space there for two gauges, but i will fill it with another two gauges when i get around to it.

Cmon people, is a torque split gauge really that helpful? Its not as if you can actually change or need to monitor it or anything to NEED a gauge (unlike oil temp, oil pressure, boost, volt, whatever else)

Meh, always two sides to everything i guess :D

Yeah, I'll be doing the 3-gauge cluster thing soon too (as you may have read in my other thread about the blown turbo).

JustJap have a DIN-sized bracket/holder for three 52mm gauges, so I'll be buying that and throwing an oil temp, oil pressure and boost gauge in there. And it's only $29.95 for the bracket!

jjdinholder.jpg

I wouldn't be spending 3*$150 on those - just get a laptop and plug into the consult port, and mount the display! :-) The software the Melbourne stagea guys saw me using is almost ready for public consumption, and I'll probably GIVE it to any Melbourne stagea owner :-)

Edited by ian
It has oil temp and pressure outputs?

If so, HELL YES! :)

About two thirds of the consult stuff has been identified, I'm working on the rest at the moment... Given the dash in my R34 has oil temp and preasure, and it electrically gets these from the CPU, they must be there somewhere!

Go the Pioneer AVG-VDP1 dvd player and screen with Vehicle Dynamics Processor. oh yea but too expensive for now.

Looks good - but it lacks the really interesting car data as it doesn't talk to the ECU... Mines going to be much better .. :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...