Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Hicks

Cool, whats the safc 2 like?

Any differences??

Quite a bit more tuning resolution, 12 vs 8 points and increments of 200rpm vs 500rpm.

It has one more wire for the knock sensor input. Handy for tuning without the dyno.

It took me just under 2hrs to install and get running, these things are too easy:D

I might have to copy someones low and high throttle mixture settings to have a better play.

Hicks, can you tell me what you have for the low and high ranges, also the percentage throttle for low and high.

I have followed the jap manual's reccomendations about a setting to try, it's a little better perhaps (hard to tell driving around the suburbs) but I don't think it's all that flash.

I'll leave the settings on '0' for the drags tommorow and have a muck around while I'm there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-126861
Share on other sites

rev210,

Congrats on the purchase, it will be interesting to hear what the tuners have to say about the SAFCII, I'd be pretty sure that it will be the same to tune but the extra points will provide a much better curve. Let us know when you have it tuned and the results.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127154
Share on other sites

Hmmm..... These guys that you are recommending..... Can they do all types of work??? I ask becuase I am looking into buying the Apexi SAFC, AVC-R and a second hand GTR cooler and I want to find a place that has a good rep/record to fit all three into my car...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127166
Share on other sites

Gts-Vspec.

If people can give some of their settings for the S-AFC on the RB25det with stock turbo , I'll get an idea of the curve to use and I'll do a bit of tuning at the drags tonight.

The knock sensor input is great, I used it to look at timing last night its very helpful(and sensitive) and I'd say with the data log (all 30sec of it) you could do a half decent job of road tuning.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127168
Share on other sites

MrGTST,

In general all of the tuners mentioned will tune just about anything, they all have there favourites that they are especially good at.

rev210,

Hicks should be there tonight, so hopefully you can get some rough guidelines from him, but seeing as all cars act a little different even on the factory computer I'm not sure how useful it will be. Hope to see you there tonight and have a look at the new purchase.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127178
Share on other sites

yeah its called the S-afc II on the controller and box, but its the third release model. The first being the one with 'dials' and no blue screen. The second the blue screen, this one blue screen with no buttons just a playstation anolgue style joystick and jog dial.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127179
Share on other sites

Gtst-vspec,

See you there, it looks like it might be a little cooler tonight, have to see how much humidity we get also. Your running a haltech right? I used to play with those back in the F7B days, so easy to tune.

The factory map is much the same for everyone if they have the same computer, the differences in car mods have an impact but, the same shape of correction curve is used to extract more power.

I don't want to re-invent the wheel I guess and I strongly suspect that those with a good S-afc tune all have a similar graph. We don't know for sure because no one has ever posted a log of settings for others to compare. On something common and simple like a S-afc having a little archive would be great to help people come at the concept as well as help us driveway and road tuners save time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127188
Share on other sites

rev210,

I actually run the new Wolf Ver 4. Seems to be good, and very soon I'll have anti-lag and rotational idle to boot, firmware updates.

I thought that the AFM would have a large impact on the tuning of the SAFC's, and seeing as each AFM has it's own curve, unfotunately they aren't actually linear, then the difference in settings between cars could be large.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127198
Share on other sites

The weird thing is the Jap manual has 3 different setting reccomendations for Hi and Low maps, that they provide a graph for to show the effect that each has on the A/F ratio across the rpm. The same reccomendations are made for the RB25det Neo, which has its own page, although the throttle Hi/Lo % is different. This is different between the series I the series II and the Neo R34 RB25DET, but the map stays the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127218
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...