Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 300
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

second that

Fronts are $588... Turns out i dont need mine(already had some in there) So if anyone needs BRAND NEW FRONT STAGEA BILSTEINS in vic, i will deliver them too you.

Cheers

Ryan

Fronts are $588... Turns out i dont need mine(already had some in there) So if anyone needs BRAND NEW FRONT STAGEA BILSTEINS in vic, i will deliver them too you.

Cheers

Ryan

I was just wondering, the old price used to be $486/pair with the SAU discount... is there no SAU discount anymore (ie. group buy finished?)

As far as the PM I got from Matt, all the other prices are still the same. Only the prices for the shocks have changed - I think he mentioned that they're now the same rates as R32 GTR, as they ride better.

  • 2 months later...
Bump for SK or Matt.

Please update us on pricing, for the benefit of all!

Thanks

I'd also like to know if this group buy is still available and is pricing on all the parts the same as the original post?

The original Bilstein shock that was used in the front of the Stagea kits was discontinued not long after I started the Group Buy. So we have been using the Bilstein R32GTR front shock as a base, which actually gives a slightly better result. The downside is they cost $50 more each. I had Bilstein absorb the price increase ($100) for as long as possible to keep the Group Buy prices the same. But all of the suppliers have had multiple price increases since the Group Buy was established over 2 years ago and I can't hold them any more. For the moment the only change is the extra $100 on the front shocks, but there will be an all over price increase of around 5% very shortly. So get in now if you want to avoid it.

A quick reminder, some time ago I did negotiate a price reduction of around $90 in the front camber kit, so the change in the total kit price over all this time is around $10.

For exact pricing on your specific needs, a PM is the best method.

Cheers

Gary

Gary,

When installing the whiteline rear springs - i had to go to the third highest circplip groove on the strut before the spring would even touch the top hat. Is this normal? ie I had to go to the second highest circlip groove to get a better height.

Adrian

Yes, quite normal, I run mine in the top circlip groove.

:( cheers :)

doesnt that mean the shock is too long for the spring?? back when i had my ute i had to get shorter shocks for my lowered springs to keep them held in place. i know having the shock that long wont damage anything, but its more a roadworthy issue. my mate got done by the transport office for havin springs that werent held in place properly.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Hi SK,

Payment sent. I tried to PM you but it was full.

Any chance of an ETA?

Cheers.

I cleared a bit of space today in the PM inbox after being away for the weekend, first weekend off in 6 months.

Cheers

Gary

I cleared a bit of space today in the PM inbox...

Hi Sk,

I wasn't too concerned about your mailbox being full. I'd think you'd have to have one of the highest contact ratios of any of the members...

But still no luck, your mailbox has been full since your post... :woot:

Just wanted to make sure you'd received my payment for the suspension (see below) and see if there's an ETA for delivery (I haven't heard anything yet)?

02/06/2008

ANZ INTERNET BANKING FUNDS TFER

TO JAMEX AUSTRALIA

$2,364.55

Thanks.

Tee Carter

hay sk

after pricing i have a series 2 2001 rsv 2wd

rear shocks and springs

rear stabliser bar

front caster kit

can i please get ur bank details too

delivery to the gold coast 4215

thanks myles 0432355971

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...