Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don’t know how some people can get 200Kw at 4 wheels with Very light mods. Before I blew the GTR up, I had quite a few mods done, and only 2 weeks before the EC drive day I went to Croydon’s and did a dyno, 194Kw @ all 4.

If you have a R32 and you can switch to rear wheels only, 200Kw is achievable because of the lower losses. We hype up our KW regularly but ready I don’t think we get as much as we say we do.

Look at it this way.

On a GTR (R33) in 4WD you will loose about 40-45% of power from fly to wheels. Rear wheel only say about 25-30%. So!

350KW @ Fly - 42.5% drive train looses is 201Kw @4W

350KW @ Fly converted to horse's is 500HP.

The injectors / turbo's /airflow meter and fuel system are at its limits when it produces 500HP. So 200Kw is not as easy as it seams.

My 194Kw was with.

720mm x 360mm x 72mm FMIC

Apexi PFC

Bleed valve to 16LB

Steel shaft/wheel garret rebuilt turbo's

3" nismo exhaust and headers

Standard Box with high flow filter

I do have one reason why my run was low, my Platinum plugs were delaminated and my air filter was 20K Km old. I have had as high as 210Kw.

Since I blew the engine up I have a few other mods which will be doing.

Variable cams, dump pipe, high flowed 47.5 mm compressor turbo wheels, 550cc injectors, Apexi boost up kit to 17lb. I will be very happy if I produce 250Wk @all 4 which is about 600HP.

I hope this helps Ethan, and I open this to the floor for comment.

Guest GregGTR

Oz GTR97V, I have to disagree with you here.... I believe that with a good turbo(s) back exhaust (3"+), twin pod air filters, power FC and good fuel you should be able to get to 200 4WKW. Standard turbos are Ok upto 14psi, and the 440cc injectors and pump can cope with ~16psi, and if you want a bit more, use ADJ CAM gears, they work wonders on RB26 motors.

G>

Agreed, but replacing turbos, is no what I would call a "Basic Mod". To get Big HP from a GTR you need bigger turbo's.

Boost, exhaust, and pods are not enough to get a GTR much above 150Kw @4W on a GTR.

It is very easy to get caught up with big dyno figures (or low for that matter) but the relality is this-

Dyno's, particullaly chassis dyno's can vary greatly from one dyno to another.

I have seen variations with the same car of up to 30kw.

Same day, same car, same fuel batch - 3 different dyno's (long story)

What you should be more interested in is the percentage increase (or decreases) of the before and after modifications dyno run/tune.

i use this car for Targa Tasmainia every year the figures are correct it has been on three diffrent dynos in the last three years

Steve

Justjap

http://www.justjap.com

Steve,

I assume your Turbo's were steel wheeled by Garrett? I just had mine redone due to the dropping of my inlet valve on number 3. (P.S. thanks for the short engine)

Various people have told me that the turbo's are good for 20Lb but talking to the guy in Garrett who rebuilds them he said they are only good for 3lb above stock standard boost on a GTR. That makes about 13Lb. What are your thoughts on the life span at 1.3 Bar? I ran 1.1 bar for 70,000Km and when he pulled them apart, except for the damage to the exhaust wheel he said they were in good condition.

Originally posted by Oz GTR97V

Agreed, but replacing turbos, is no what I would call a "Basic Mod". To get Big HP from a GTR you need bigger turbo's.

Boost, exhaust, and pods are not enough to get a GTR much above 150Kw @4W on a GTR.

hi oz gtr,get yourself a new tuner.

heres an example.

r32gtr

trust cooler,16psi,standard computer,exhaust,airfilters.

231 kw rear wheels.ran 11.8 at 121mph

i had similar on a r33gtr with power fc,made 255kw@4.

on 2 different dyno dynamics dyno.one was 255kw other was 251kw.

after being sold was redynoed on different dyno by new owner and made 254kw.

Vspec,

I actually used Karl, from down your way. We went to the tafe dyno and that is where we clocked the 210Kw. With the 440cc injectors they were 95% maxed and the fuel ratio was just right. I will be down in melb in the next couple of months, let me know who your tuner is and I will let him play with the car when Im down.

How much kw does a stock GTR have @ all 4 wheels? I'm guessing it would be less than 177, which is why I'm a little confused why EthanR33 is selling his car for one thats older, and has less power than the one he's currently got? Is it the 4 wheel traction your after or just the fact you WANT to own a GTR? I'm not having a go I'm just curious?

Originally posted by turbomad

How much kw does a stock GTR have @ all 4 wheels? I'm guessing it would be less than 177, which is why I'm a little confused why EthanR33 is selling his car for one thats older, and has less power than the one he's currently got? Is it the 4 wheel traction your after or just the fact you WANT to own a GTR? I'm not having a go I'm just curious?

I guess it's the potential that it offers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...