Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 problem? or R32?

thanks

Originally posted by YBSLO4

Clearly someone should have told you not to ever boot the throttler when teh tank is below 1/4 full?? Doing so is asking for trouble mate... when it is below a 1/4 it is hard enough for the pump to suck fuel normally let alone sloshing around when you boot the crapper outa it and hit redline... this would explain also why you cut out, was because the pump coudln't pick up enough fuel to match for the amount of air coming in... you lucky you didn't blow it :S Be careful mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8600-can-this-be-verified/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by 2fardown

Same goes for just about any car.   If you run the tank near empty you also pick up all the sedaments/dirt in the bottom of the tank, which in turn can harm your engine.

So, that means the pump moves up and down in the tank, depending on how much fuel is there.

Get real, the pump will pick it up with an overflowing tank. That's why there are filters in the system, on the pump itself, and before the fuel rail.

The R32, at least, has a sort of surge tank built around the fuel pump area to reduce the movement of fuel away from the pump pickup. Hammering it probably is not condusive to keeping the fuel near the pick on a lowish fuel level. And considering the tank is much wider than it is deep, a 1/4 tank is not a lot of fuel.

Fuel surge will be most noticeable on RH turns, since the pump is located towards the RH side of the tank, and a RH turn will throw the fuel to the left, away from the pump.

Originally posted by blind_elk

So, that means the pump moves up and down in the tank, depending on how much fuel is there.

Get real, the pump will pick it up with an overflowing tank. That's why there are filters in the system, on the pump itself, and before the fuel rail.

The R32, at least, has a sort of surge tank built around the fuel pump area to reduce the movement of fuel away from the pump pickup. Hammering it probably is not condusive to keeping the fuel near the pick on a lowish fuel level. And considering the tank is much wider than it is deep, a 1/4 tank is not a lot of fuel.

Fuel surge will be most noticeable on RH turns, since the pump is located towards the RH side of the tank, and a RH turn will throw the fuel to the left, away from the pump.

I'm not sure what you are getting at. But my point still stands about the sedaments.

Guest Boxhead

this is my theory, the only reason there is the crap down the bottom is because no one ever uses that bit of fuel that keeps sitting there...

if you keep using it you shouldnt get the build up lol..

that said i have only ever hit he fuel light on my car, and i wasnt booting it.. it was on the way to the petrol station too

Same goes for just about any car. If you run the tank near empty you also pick up all the sedaments/dirt in the bottom of the tank, which in turn can harm your engine.

what happens if you bought a new car and run it empty every time then this would not be a problem.

I drive around many times with hardly any petrol in my car and never have any problems? also if driving around with 1/4 of a tank "harms" ur car shouldnt the light really come on at 1/4.

1/4 of a tank harming the car? strange very very strange, im not convinced

Originally posted by akeenan

what happens if you bought a new car and run it empty every time then this would not be a problem.

I drive around many times with hardly any petrol in my car and never have any problems? also if driving around with 1/4 of a tank "harms" ur car shouldnt the light really come on at 1/4.  

1/4 of a tank harming the car? strange very very strange, im not convinced

I mis-read the original post and worded my reply wrong. I was talking about the crap in the bottom of the fuel tank. My brother has a 180sx basically ran his tank just near empty and in effect clogged up his fuel filter full of sh!t.

If you aren't convinced...honestly I couldn't give two sh!ts.:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...