Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys could one of the drag racers/competitors here please help me out with understanding what the times mean.

What is the difference between a car that runs 12.1 @ 98mph and one that runs 12.1 @ 131mph?

If the ET is the same, does the car with the lower top speed find more traction from the line so that it can accelerate faster/sooner?

It seems to be a 1.6 60' is a guy that can drive and a car with plenty of go, and a 2.5 60' is someone who probably drives like me. Are there any other figures that give you an indication of what is going on?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86369-understanding-drag-stats/
Share on other sites

Guys could one of the drag racers/competitors here please help me out with understanding what the times mean.

What is the difference between a car that runs 12.1 @ 98mph and one that runs 12.1 @ 131mph?

If the ET is the same, does the car with the lower top speed find more traction from the line so that it can accelerate faster/sooner?

It seems to be a 1.6 60' is a guy that can drive and a car with plenty of go, and a 2.5 60' is someone who probably drives like me. Are there any other figures that give you an indication of what is going on?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

Mark, it isn't that simple! There are many factors at play which make straight line projections worthless.

Nevertheless there are some general rules of thumb which can help you analyse a full timeslip.

For a well sorted car the following ETs and trap speeds are well accepted:

13.0 @ 100 mph

12.0 @ 110 mph

11.0 @ 120 mph

10.0 @ 130 mph

9.0 @ 145 mph

8.5 @ 155 mph

8.0@ 165 mph

7.5 @ 175 mph

Note that late model, IRS cars tend to run slower ETs and faster trap speeds. That is indicative that the IRS, lack of space for rubber and less efficient weigh transfer work against these types of cars.

Regarding your questions, a stovehot driver with a slow car may still only be able to manage a 2.0 short time. A poor driver with a monster car might manage a lousy 1.5 short time, if you follow my drift.

Thanks for your replies guys. Your comments have cleared things up some, but I'm not sure if you're implying that quoting an ET isn't *too* helpful when comparing cars, but they will generally follow the scale MrBlonde mentioned?

Still wondering. It'd be nice to know when some guy is spinning you a line about his latest effort at WSID. Sounds like I need to get my butt down to the drag strip and watch a few races to understand things better! :D

The figures MrBlonde gave are indicative of ideal runs and are a very good guide as to what a well sorted car can achieve on a good run. Not all runs are ideal and therefore other factors (such as wheelspin, pedalling, slow gear changes, backing off, car out of shape etc) will see variations on those guides. There are other figures that will give further indication as to how the run went, such as 330', 660' and 1000' times and speeds.

Sounds like I need to get my butt down to the drag strip and watch a few races to understand things better! ;)
That's the best way to learn. I've been to easily 80-90% of all events held at WSID and seen a zillions runs and i'm still amazed at how quick some drivers/cars go with minimal power/mods.

You would be quite suprised how many drivers I meet in the staging lanes out in the pits whom are totally stoked at their ET's only to tell them that they could easily do another 0.3-0.5sec quicker just with a few adjustments and/or more experience without any modifications.

Note that late model, IRS cars tend to run slower ETs and faster trap speeds. That is indicative that the IRS, lack of space for rubber and less efficient weigh transfer work against these types of cars.

Modern IRS cars, especially "sports" ones, tend to have geometry that increases camber as the suspension compresses.

If you're powering out of a corner that's great, but if you're trying to launch then its not ideal.

  • 4 weeks later...

can anyone tell me what an ET of 14.5 with a TS of 100mph would indicate.

I am a crap drag racer and have never broken 14.3 but my TS is always up around the 100mph mark, and my 60' is always around 2.2+

Does this indicate that my car could run faster with a decent driver at the wheel? and can someone tell me what sort of times it should be capable of running with those figures?

can anyone tell me what an ET of 14.5 with a TS of 100mph would indicate.

I am a crap drag racer and have never broken 14.3 but my TS is always up around the 100mph mark, and my 60' is always around 2.2+

Does this indicate that my car could run faster with a decent driver at the wheel? and can someone tell me what sort of times it should be capable of running with those figures?

Car could definately run faster with a decent 60' time.

My mph (104mph) isn't much higher than yours, yet I've run a best ET of 12.9...the big difference is 60', mine was ~1.8.

If you could get your 60' down to around a 2.0, then I believe that you should easily net a mid to high 13 :(

Car could definately run faster with a decent 60' time.

My mph (104mph) isn't much higher than yours, yet I've run a best ET of 12.9...the big difference is 60', mine was ~1.8.

If you could get your 60' down to around a 2.0, then I believe that you should easily net a mid to high 13 :)

Thanks for the reply......looks like I need to practice my launches. I don't like being too brutal on my car though, hence the slow 60' times.

Maybe I should give up on drag racing. I think you need a certain amount of mechanical disregard to be a good drag racer :(

Thanks for the reply......looks like I need to practice my launches.  I don't like being too brutal on my car though, hence the slow 60' times.

Maybe I should give up on drag racing.  I think you need a certain amount of mechanical disregard to be a good drag racer :P

Everything that breaks is just an opportunity to make your car stronger ;-)

can anyone tell me what an ET of 14.5 with a TS of 100mph would indicate.

Just as an indication I did 14.0 @ 100mph with a 2.0sec 60ft time and i've seen many others do 13.7-14.0's with 100mph.

So seems like you need to work on the first 330ft section of the drag strip.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
×
×
  • Create New...