Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: RB20det powered 180sx.

Location:central coast NSW

Item Condition:Car is in excellent condition with the front and being repainted recently after new front bar and gaurds installed.

Reason for Selling: Need a family car

Price and Payment Conditions: price is $12000 ONO

Extra Info:car is midly modified with the following items:

Blitz pod filter.

Hybrid FMIC and custom piping.

3inch dump pipe back exhaust w 4inch tip

Gold ozzy racing 5 spoke rims w new goodyear eagle F1 tyres

( i still have the standard rims will sell with car)

r32 non turbo brake upgrade.

Mines ecu

Apexi RSM

Blitz single solenoid boost controller

boost gauge.

momo steering wheel.

Contact Details:0427231710 or [email protected]

NOW $11 000!!!!

post-5014-1126231476.jpg

post-5014-1126231542.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87084-rb20det-180sx/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

its an R33, its Silver on gunmetal grey, it has about 102000ks, mmmm, its just lowered with lovells springs and thats the only modd done. ive tried to post the photos but it hasnt worked so ill email them to you. do you rekon i could get your number off you because ive tried calling afew times and it says the phone is disconnected or if you would like to message me either would be great.

cheers Will 0413600877

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87084-rb20det-180sx/#findComment-1621733
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...