Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok before anyone asks, no I haven't banged my engine! (touch wood!) I have just been following the arias piston thread and thought that these seem to get the nod on some occations...

so I gather they are made in the USA, what are the prices here like?

87mm seems the go also what about 9 : 1 or 8.5 : 1 ?

I have found some in the states for $970 aussie... complete with rings etc....

ideas :P

Contact Markr34gtr is the man to talk to for CP pistons (very nice product) i used a set from mark on a r34 gtr vspec making 500rwhp plus happily. They run a 0.0035 clearance which is pretty good for forged pistons.

pete

Williams, that's pretty cheap if they are complete with rings.

One thing you need to be careful of with CP pistons, is that you get different rings depending on where you buy the pistons from. CP don't make their own rings.

I know if you order from CP direct, you get a japanese made ring. If you buy a set here, I'm pretty sure you get a US made hastings ring.

Also, the 87mm pistons you buy here are not an off the shelf CP piston, they are a custom piston and use a different ring width to the 86.5mm pistons (and the US 87mm pistons)

By the way Tomei pistons run 0.002" to 0.00225" clearance.

ok the reason I ask is I have found a place in the USA that does RB26 CP pistons... 86.5 and 87mm same as what cousin blitz has got....

I found the price to be rather reasonable, and that is with American rings matched to the pistons....

oh and that price would be me picking them up in LA :huh: but that isnt an issue....

but I am (touch wood a lot!!) not looking at doing this for a while, just curious as to the price diff locally...

ok the second part of my question has been skipped, comp ratio??

pluses and minuses for 8.5 or 9

cheers!

ok the reason I ask is I have found a place in the USA that does RB26 CP pistons... 86.5 and 87mm same as what cousin blitz has got....

I found the price to be rather reasonable, and that is with American rings matched to the pistons....

oh and that price would be me picking them up in LA :( but that isnt an issue....

but I am (touch wood a lot!!) not looking at doing this for a while, just curious as to the price diff locally...

ok the second part of my question has been skipped, comp ratio??

pluses and minuses for 8.5 or 9

cheers!

Hey Ben, I think you'll find the American 87mm pistons will be a different piston to Nicks ones. The Aussie distributor custom orders the 87mm pistons with thinner rings.

Hey Ben, I think you'll find the American 87mm pistons will be a different piston to Nicks ones. The Aussie distributor custom orders the 87mm pistons with thinner rings.

G'day Mik,

I can't say either way regarding the thinner rings, just that the CP pistons are for the RB26 and come in the 4 different options of size and comp....

I have emailed them regarding the rings spec...

Rob82...

no my engine is still in 1 piece... I was just asking out of curiosity....

I should think my engine should be going for sometime yet!!!!

here is the link to the site....

http://www.bnecustoms.com/store/home.php?cat=453

and CP

http://www.cppistons.com/sCompactNEW.htm

ben,

why aren't u speaking to jim @ dart? he recommends arias because of the ring quality (eqiuvalent of nismo rings)

at the end of the day its like asking the question of holden & ford?

it is personal opinion & they both have 4 wheels...

marko

hey mate :(

yeah I had the discussion about either of them a while back, I was just curious about the CP as I don't know much about them, and I know the arias are a good thing....

so how many km to go till u get some real boost? :)

hey mate ;)

yeah I had the discussion about either of them a while back, I was just curious about the CP as I don't know much about them, and I know the arias are a good thing....

so how many km to go till u get some real boost? ;)

Ben,

CRD recommends 1500km whereas Dart recommends 1000km

i may do 1250km :)

I hear you may be moving to Adelaide for good!?

Marko

yep! leaving old Sydney town...

well never say never.... but Adelaide is home, and plenty of GT-R friendly roads over there...

I'll just commute for work ;)

you will need some semi's for that car of yours now surely!!!

Williams, that's pretty cheap if they are complete with rings.

One thing you need to be careful of with CP pistons, is that you get different rings depending on where you buy the pistons from. CP don't make their own rings.

I know if you order from CP direct, you get a japanese made ring. If you buy a set here, I'm pretty sure you get a US made hastings ring.

Also, the 87mm pistons you buy here are not an off the shelf CP piston, they are a custom piston and use a different ring width to the 86.5mm pistons (and the US 87mm pistons)

By the way Tomei pistons run 0.002" to 0.00225" clearance.

ok this back in from the piston supplier....

"The rings are produced by CP Pistons. They are made of tool steel. Tool steel

is harder and stronger than the chromoly ones that everyone else sells. Plus

the tool steel rings seat a lot faster than the chromoly ones.

You also get Chromoly 5100 series pins, and wire lock retainers."

so they are made my CP?

ok this back in from the piston supplier....

"The rings are produced by CP Pistons.  They are made of tool steel.  Tool steel

is harder and stronger than the chromoly ones that everyone else sells.  Plus

the tool steel rings seat a lot faster than the chromoly ones.

You also get Chromoly 5100 series pins, and wire lock retainers."

so they are made my CP?

That is very odd. I was told CP don't make rings. The guys at CP in the states told me that they supply a Jap made ring.

The aussie dist supplies either total seal or hastings (US made rings)

Another weird thing...I always thought chromoly (ie chrome molybdeum (spelling??)) WAS tool steel!! ;)

But in any case, if I were to use CP rings, I would get them custom made to accept OEM rings and OEM tru arc locks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...