Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Bought New Car And Need A Cheap/free Deck :)


Recommended Posts

a car like this, is stil too FAT, put her on a big diet strip out any shit u dont need, ie jack, spare tyre, panels etc etc etc, ull save on fuel and plus u make it go an extra 0.2 km faster on a high speed run.

if u pop a tyre, just say it got stolen not worth it getting towed. LOL

im lookinh into a bomb myslef, i cant afford 10 per day for fuel just to uni and back. i wanna cry booo hoo

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

should be the offical sauwa mascot car, ahahah i love it, i got 50m 100mm pin striping, im sure we could wack some gt stripes on it hahaha, chrome paint the dubs, a shopping list, and a drift wing up on the roof ahahha should make it pull high 10's :D

bunkys are the shizle though, i had a performance bunky i had one of those really old toyota celicas ages ago, and while i was inside watching tele at a mates house they drcuded to sneak out and have some fun, they gave it 2 crooked as fudg racing stripes, painted the rims and wall of the tyre red and white, wrote 05 over it everywere, including my name on the boot ahah i walked outside after about 30mins to find my car totaly bombed up, not with tape, all spraycans, ahahah was a good laugh, ahhh how i miss her now :)

now thats a beast hahaha

gotta love bunkys and being able to go to the shops and dont bother winding up windows or locking it or bugger all haha

the joys, go over speed humps at 100kmh, over large curbs, drifting into curbs and laughing when ya hit it haha, bent plenty of axles in my old bunkys :) cost like $50 for a complete engine, and f**kin other parts people give away, and u can park it in some dodgy train station carpark or whatever and dont give a shit about whether its there when u get back :)

those where the days :)

Haha yeah the main reason I bought a N/A 33, at least 400kms per tank. Also got an R31 Pintara, must be 550ks per tank.

EDIT: Which reminds me, Pintara is for sale. Slow but looks fully sick uleh! PM for pics if anyone wants to know more.

Edited by Br4nchi3
  • 1 month later...

just picked up my new car, bit of an upgrade from the R33

it pulls a scary 51 flywheel kilowatts @ 5000rpm.

today i changed the oil and spark plugs, removed the rear louver, and dumped it on some new 13" hubcaps.

pimpin.

post-15551-1130572478.jpg

man.. bunkys are where its at, when they work that is. Mine is going at the moment but its using just as much petrol as my GTST, which kinda defeats the purpose of buying it... but i do get to fit an arcade machine in the back of the van

I get 420kms to a R33 GTST tank.. but its only pulling 226.9rwhp at the moment :rolleyes:

I'm doing about the same with 225 rwhp! 48 lits for 420km. Which is not too bad, considering the fact that i'm stayin on campus in uni, and i only take her out on the weekends. A take lasts me 2 weeks? :rolleyes: But that will all go down the drain when the avc-r and pfc + new turbo. :D Oh wells, hopin for 300hp in the not so near future. Just can't afford it for now. :mellow:

Dude, these vans are the ultimate machine.. I got a work van, (suzuki carry, holden Scurry) same thing, and the are the hardest thing to kill.. I just beat it every day, started it up, rev the shit out of it, drill it when it's cold, go through the gear box up and DOWN without using the clutch. And it just keeps going.. it's insane

done 350 000 since new, on it's 2 block and 3rd head.. when I got the thing, the head gasket was on it's way, boss told me to keep going till it died in the arse.. well.. when I drove around with the seat up and the radiator cap off, and jsut poored water in it every time I stopped I new it was time to get it fixed. That and you poored the water in the radiator and it came straight out the exhaust. :(

but yeah.. new headgasket and shes on her way again.. damn things are unable to die..

Edited by wyldie

Yeh man it is cool, but i have a problem when I try and start it sometimes. If i put fresh petrol in it from nearly empty, it doesnt start. If i park it on a hill, it doesnt start. I figured out if i leave it for about 2 hours it will start up fine. Im guessing that theres water in the fuel tank and it gets sucked in when it gets swished around the tank. Also its bad on fuel at the moment.

Any ideas?

I know I had to put a new fuel pump on both of the ones we have, the stock one sits just next to the tank, ditch it off and get one from coventries or something, but new fuel pump is defenetly the way to go.. Also a common problem with them is they have trouble starting when it's really hot.. like 32c +

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...