Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well for 20k,, there's heaps of r33 series 2 out there.

but wats da main things to look for? just briefly...

this is my first turbo car, and im kindda newbie to turbos.

i've heard turbos can have many many problems

so im worried that if i buy it, i'll need to spend thousands on top of it.

cos i've got no more to spend.

well for 20k,, there's heaps of r33 series 2 out there.

but wats da main things to look for? just briefly...

this is my first turbo car, and im kindda newbie to turbos.

i've heard turbos can have many many problems

so im worried that if i buy it, i'll need to spend thousands on top of it.

cos i've got no more to spend.

if all u have is $20k, do not buy a $20k car

I have an R34 GTX 4Door Non Turbo, NEO6 Version for sale. Full features - Factory TV/NAV/Keyless Entry/Engine Start/Triptonic/Xenon Headlights plus more. No damage history at all.

Link can be found here: http://www.allblitz.com.au/cars/japcars/98gtx.html

Can do a good price for you - including registration, with some money left over to fill up petrol for the next month or 2 :P

If you buy an R32 GT-R you have no clue about the state of the engine and the probability is high that it was trashed in japan. Not to mention its way too old now lol

If you have no clue on the condition of an r32 gtr engine why would you know anything about the condition of an r33 gtst donk?

IMHO if you're after looks then its simply personal taste. If performance is your ticket then a gtr for the same $ may be older but there is no comparison between the vehicles. An r32 gtr is the real deal, a gtst is simply the shopping trolley version sharing very little mechanically. Look at the price of these cars when new and its quite clear where the value now lies.

  • 2 weeks later...

Dude, it's pretty simple go skyline r33 series2. Newer. more features, new turbo , good power and yes with a few modes it goes pretty hard. Yes you can not put it next to gtr but by the time you get an r32 running %100 you could have built a gun of an r33. Dont be bothered with the fact that there are many r33 around. That's simply coz they are popular, good quality and pocket rockets plus all the extra space and luxury R32 is lacking. I am really unbias and have had almost every import such as: 300zx tt, r33 series 1, 180sx. Now i got r33 series 2 that cost me about 25gs, have done all the basics such as:suspension, wheels, exaust,body kit filter, cooler, boost Apexi Fc and car is going like a thunder. Have given a few good goes to r32 gtrs belive it or not. Hop-e this helps, anyway this is my 2 cent

Cheers

my vote would be to go for a s2 r33.

spend up to 18k on a decent mainly unmodded car, and remember you will need to budget for insurance/change in ownership etc.

if this is your first turbo car don't jump in the deep end and get a 32 gtr, possibly the worst thing you could do. even if the gtr is in top nick it will still require a great deal of maintenance to keep it that way.

having said that, any jap import you buy will not just be a get in, drive and forget about proposition. if you want that buy a new corolla :D

get the gtst, read a lot on here, and you will be happy with the decision.

  • 2 weeks later...

Car has been complianced and is arriving to Melbourne either Today or Tomorrow. Will be available for inspection on weekend.

All the gauges and cooler have been removed from the car.

http://www.allblitz.com.au/cars/japcars/94gtstm3.html

I can do it for $13,800 with 12 Months Registration.

Building a car for drift, on a budget... you'll probably be wanting the R32 GTS-t then, and for a touch of spice, you could try a 4-door, cefiro or laurel. If you are drifting it you will want to be spending a lot of time and money looking after your car because you will be treating you car a lot harsher than the average user, i'm not sure you are fully aware of just how much drifting actually costs, and that's before your first stack :D.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...