Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Ken,

I know alot of people who want to kick his ass, but I don't have the budget to do that. I just want to take my fully modded street car and race it.

See'ya:burnout:

well forget getting more power.

Go for the biggest badass son of a bitch they stop , mother fu**er brakes on it and strip the car.

ANY road car using road type brake rotors and calipers will not last 6 hard laps around there.

If it does , yo ain't trying hard enough boy !

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Ken,

If you were her father, then I bet she thanks god she looks like her mother:p

See'ya:burnout:

well thank god I'm not her Father cos it would be incestous thoughts not just dirty old man thoughts.

Hehehe

Cheers

Ken

ps Just kidding loz , really . Would treat you like a daughter, honest.:P

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

I have the option of buying R32 GTR brakes, don't know if they are worth it.

See'ya:burnout:

Ahh you have 4 spot 296x28 mm rotors on the front of yours.

R32 gtr have 4 spot 296 x30 mm rotors on the front.

The gain is ?.......

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

I have seen a set of 8pot Brembo brakes, I think they would do the trick, tied with some 360mm disks:p

See'ya:burnout:

NOW ya talking.

Trouble is can only go up 1 inch on std size wheel so 360mm are a bit tight.

But you are getting the idea. must get the ones with no dust seals or will set fire to them ( I did )

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by gtrken

Ahh you have 4 spot 296x28 mm rotors on the front of yours.

R32 gtr have 4 spot 296 x30 mm rotors on the front.

The gain is ?.......

Cheers

Ken

2mm paul only wishes he could get an increase like that where he needs it.

:P hehehe

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

They are cross-drilled? So not much point. I'll have to buy some decent 6pot AP's, don't want to sell me yours?

See'ya:burnout:

crossdrilled for racing is crap.

Stress heat cracks start from the holes and run to the outside very quickly.

In fact I don't know why they cross drill discs?

Cheers

Ken

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...