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Nah mines pretty simple on the mod side.... It has a Turbo back HKS exhaust, HKS airpod, HKS Front Mount intercooler, Apexi AVC-R and front and rear strut braces ( I think thats what you would call them anyways )

On high boost (14 PSI ) it goes pretty well... I am going to organise another dyno soon to confirm the power at the wheels...

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Oh yeah .... you just reminded me... I just got the clutch done too!!!! How could I forget that.... it was like last week :(

Yeah I got my car dyno'ed in Myaree and pulled 285 at the wheels.... Thats why I plan to go to SST to see what it reads there....

yea myree have more than a rep of upping hp figures to make people happy.. mine ran 250hp when running like shite - which translated to about 210 in reality.. then got boost fixed and 230hp.. i'd say it may be conservative - but definitely more accurate than myree.. so lets say an error of ~16% - therefore brett your car would realistically be pulling around 240...

which is still bloody good...

Meh left bank blows, no good local beers and its overpriced. Sundays its always packed and its too far from the centre of freo.

Sail and anchor 3pm be there if u like but no guarentees.

Im telling it like it is here its not up for debate :(

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    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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