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  • GTS-t VSPEC

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nah Phil - i really love my GTR wing - just seems to be of very poor quality thats all! then again i was doing a 130km when it decided to dettach!

how to tell if they need skimming ...... only changing rear for now - i aint made of money at the moment!

agh i hate driving wit my mum "Lauren we are doing 110km in a 70 zone .... u realise that? .... thats 40km over"

"thank u mum glad u can solve mathematical problems"

"*insert lecture about losing license here*"

*repeat process when entering new speedzone*

AGHHHHHH

yeah my mum suffers from car sickness and is a natural born whinger! *must have some english blood in her* :(:)

but u talk to mum and she exaggerates everything!! she sounds like she drags every car and is a total rev head ....... but in reality she drives like a pussie!

Paul yeah i know but apparently i have 80% front brakes left and no back brakes ...... so considering those odds im replacing the back first :(

ive got it printed out on my last service report - front 80% rear 30% hmmmm i think they would be down 10% since then. If i take them to a brake blace to have them skimmed and ask them about the fronts ...... of coarse they are going to tell me to change them for some extra $$$ :)

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    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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