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she wont let me line it up to find out - her car is way to heavy .... its like driving a school bus compared to mine .... ZX definately beats it .... in fact my ZX scares the shit outta my mum .... Skyline - i think it would be a close race .... off the line most definately!! with my folks driving most definately!! but in a proffessional race after a while i think it would be a close call! .... im talking auto against auto here ..... Manual R33 might whip its arse.

My dad has the same as my mums but pooey yellow ..... he doesnt believe me when i say that Skylines used to race at Bathhurst .... he constantly puts my car down but in reality i think he's afraid of it and knows the truth ..... i mean if u paid 60K for a car and a 20K could beat it - you would be in denial too!!

apparently ...... saturday right? i think i may go shotgun in the passengers seat tho - all these cruises are costing me too much in petrol and my front brake pads are very low.

haha those pictures were funny - got me all excited Neo :D

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    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
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