Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Kutter, All Joe's are odd;)

hahah shut up pauly, you can talk...

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Dan, I love chopping people in my car, I come along side them then let the screamer pipe off in there ears:D

that can be mean so many things... lol:bahaha: :) you got enought room in the back?

Aidwin.. good to hear mate.. don't go getting toooooo much hp. I'm starting to get left behind.

Paul.. thinking of getting Ray to put in a Wolf. are map sensons and boost controller a pay extra option..? any idea of the cost.?

what do you reckon for a tune down at SST.. around the 4-500 mark..?

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Joe, I don't mean :fart: in there ears:p

Aidwin, I'm glad that twin turbo magna didn't beat me in the dyno comp:D

hahah so people pass out cuz of smell or the sound? LOL

Twin Turbo magna? WOOT? COOL

RalliArt Twin Turbo MAGNA All Wheel Drive. that's awesome :)

Shan, The wolf is $1395, comes with a boost controller and MAP sensor. All you need to do is run a vacuum hose from the manifold to the ECU, the boost controller can run the stock ECU. Steve generally does the install and tune for $2000 for SAU members, if you do the install yourself it may be cheaper.

Aidwin, Funny is one way to put it;)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...