Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys ive decided to start a thread on my build up of the engine, and stuff on the stagea and saves people asking q's and ill post up heaps of pics as i go along :)

heres the info so far on what ive got:

Engine: RB26DETT

INTERNALS:

JUN 2.7L stroker kit

JUN forged crank

JUN forged connecting rods

JUN cosworth forged pistons

JUN oil pump

JUN head stud kit

JUN big end stud kit

JUN 272 degree/11.35mm lift cams

JUN adjustable cam gears

JUN titanium retainers

JUN heavy duty valve springs

Nismo bearings

HKS metal gasket kit

valve guides

Gates timing belt

n1 waterpump

INTAKE:

HKS T04Z (0.81) turbo

K&N Pod Filter (huge!!)

Trust stainless steel exhuast manifold

custom 3" aluminium intercooler piping

HKS 50mm external wastegate (vented to atmo :D )

EXHAUST:

4" dump pipe into 4" exhaust, to 3.5" after cat

4" magic cat converter

3.5" stainless steel mufflers x 2

FUEL SYSTEM:

sard 1000cc injectors

sard dual entry fuel rail

sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator

bosch 044 fuel pumps x 2

goss intank pumps x 2

Alloy surge tank

twin fuel lines from pumps to engine

DRIVELINE:

custom twin plate clutch

gtr 5 speed gearbox

GTR rear diff and axles

4.3 diff ratios

SUSPENSION:

bilstein shocks

whiteline springs

whiteline/arc swaybars

BRAKES:

R34 gtr v spec front 4 spot brembo calipers

DBA 328mm alloy hat slotted rotors

R32 GTR rear 2 spot calipers

DBA 300mm slotted rotors

brembo front brake pads

bendix ultimate rear pads

stainless steel braided brake lines

OTHER ENGINE BITS:

Autronics SMC ecu

Autronics CDI ignition amplifier

MSD coilpacks

nismo engine mounts

nismo gearbox mount

oil cooler

custom 9L baffled sump

need to get a 100mm thick cooler blitz or apexi or something similiar, and thats pretty much all i need to get now :)

engine is at the machine shop at the moment and hoping to get block back within 3 weeks or so and the head is machined for the cams and porting is being done as we speak, the HKS t04Z turbo is ordered from japan and waiting on exact price from HKS :)

heres a few pics of the car at the moment and a test fit of the brembo r34 calipers and dba alloy rotors which luckily just fit behind my rims :D

and i been hiding all the headlight wiring harnesses and all the wires that run along between headlights and battery and headlights and air box on the other side, i took a few pics with the wiring gone and if u checkout your own stagea's they are full of wires usually :P

and heres the dba 328 mm rotor compared to the stock stagea front rotor :O

and ill show i few pics of before it had the motor taken out :)

ill update as i go in here rather than posting heaps of different threads :)]

cheers

Brad

post-20455-1127213305.jpg

post-20455-1127213392.jpg

post-20455-1127213532.jpg

post-20455-1127213657.jpg

post-20455-1127213873.jpg

post-20455-1127213955.jpg

post-20455-1127214056.jpg

post-20455-1127214202.jpg

post-20455-1127214411.jpg

post-20455-1127214488.jpg

post-20455-1127214566.jpg

post-20455-1127214665.jpg

Edited by StageZilla
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88412-updates-on-the-jun-27l-staj-build/
Share on other sites

What did you have to do to convert the rear end to GTR?

Is it just a rear GTR diff and axle stubs? They all bolt in perfect etc? New driveshaft?

I mean, the power i will chase in the end, id like to at least be prepared as youve said stagea axles are tiny.. :D

What did you have to do to convert the rear end to GTR?

Is it just a rear GTR diff and axle stubs? They all bolt in perfect etc? New driveshaft?

I mean, the power i will chase in the end, id like to at least be prepared as youve said stagea axles are tiny.. :D

hey alex its not as simple as first thought :)

the easy bit...

gtr diff housing and stagea housing r identical size, except stagea one has mounting points for attessa pumps and gtr one doesnt so i put the gtr diff internals in the stagea diff housing and therefore the same abs sensors were in also as the gtr ones r different, the rear diff plate on the gtr diff is alot bigger and shiny ally fins where as the stagea one is flat and black, gtr one bolts on ok but the fins hit on the rear cradle not allowing to pull hard up when bolting up, so we bent the end piece of the crossmember lip like 2-3mm and its clear by a few mm, which is fine and totally unnoticable :O

hubs and brakes fit str8 on with the change of two of the bushes, easy as :)

stagea tailshaft bolts str8 on as normal :)

axles r two different lengths (drivers side is longer than passenger side), which is something i didn't realise for a while, and i tried the gtr long axle on the short side and it was too short, and then i got a gts4 axle and tried the long side on the short side of my car and it fit perfect, so i got another gts4 one and thought it would fit (thinking they were the same length :D ) and it was wayyyyy short, like 70mm i think, so we cut up one of the gtr ends and welded on an extension piece on the the main bit that bolts onto the diff flange, and its lasted for abit of absolute thrashing and hard launches etc with 360rwhp but i dont know how its gonna take 600hp+ :lol:

time will tell :P

Edited by StageZilla

Ok,

So for realistic purposes, i may be better off to get some custom axles machined up by someone in just thicker diameter metal and stronger alloy?

Add a NISMO GT PRO LSD to the mix and that should mean overall improved strength i suppose...

Do you have any info on how the ATESSA would hold up with increased power? What problems can arise and what are the consiquences of the ATESSA going?

Ok,

So for realistic purposes, i may be better off to get some custom axles machined up by someone in just thicker diameter metal and stronger alloy?

Add a NISMO GT PRO LSD to the mix and that should mean overall improved strength i suppose...

Do you have any info on how the ATESSA would hold up with increased power? What problems can arise and what are the consiquences of the ATESSA going?

thanks gts evolution, i got em for a bargain price, thanks to a champ :)

and alex im not sure on the attessa, but its the same as the gtr one so i cant see any problems but thats what ive said about this whole conversion from rb25-26 etc etc and look its been on the road 3 weeks in 10 months :D

patience is the key B)

What did you use to paint the rear caliper?  Did you do it yourself, or is it a pro job?  I was always under the impression it wasn't a good idea to spray the inside near the piston.

Its going to be a damn fast volvo ;)

painted them at home with that anodizing paint, but u gotta buy an undercoat first so it sticks, its about $40 for the colour and the primer which is ok, it looks awesome for a spray can job :)

theres a thread in the tutorial section which explains details about the paint and how to do it etc :)

heres the link... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...+brake+calipers

i cant wait to drive it dont you worry :D

i love volvos ;)

cheers

Brad

How is the build going?

engine is still at the machine shop and the shop is waiting on jun specs for clearances etc which is taking for bloody ever.

turbo i am waiting for, and bov waiting, and suspension waiting, need oil cooler, and head needs to be ported and assembly of the engine then :)

i just cant bloody wait hehe :cheers:

  • 3 weeks later...

well finally some development in the build, and i picked up the freshly machined block yesterday and the head is machined for the 270/11.35mm lift cams but it still needs a freshen up and port and polish.

the day prior to that i picked up my HKS T04Z Turbo and its got through customs without and taxes haha, and it weighs a bloody tonne, lucky lucky i reckon :)

so with the block ready i just need to sort the head and then i need to get the JUN stroker kit instructions translated for torque specs and clearances etc.

assembly is not for away and im still searching for a 100mm thick jap intercooler, might get an ARE one, or a brand new blitz one if i have too.

ive got the n1 water pump and im wondering how that is with abit of street driving? because im going to be revving to over 10k so a stock water pump wont cut it?

heres a pic of the turbo and one with it next to a stock gtr turbo.

cheers

Brad

post-20455-1129372238.jpg

post-20455-1129373326.jpg

Considering you wont be needing your std turbine, want to give it to me at a bargain price so that i can get it rebuilt for my stagea?

I know its probably in good condition anyway, but im looking for a an any condition one to rebuild

Considering you wont be needing your std turbine, want to give it to me at a bargain price so that i can get it rebuilt for my stagea?

I know its probably in good condition anyway, but im looking for a an any condition one to rebuild

its a standard rb26 turbo :) not much use on a 25, and i sold em off anyways :)

  • 3 months later...

The full build up thread is over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=98086

That is so stupid, why the hell didnt they just unban StageZilla?

Politics, really gets in the way sometimes.

I wondered why the name change happened. What's the background to this for those of us obviously not in the know?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...