Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest Miles B

1000hp out of it NA? I think someone is pulling your leg. Very very hard, unless they were running nitromethane or something.

B6: he is using an auto (not stock). I am hoping to swap my A340 auto for a R154 manual off either a TT Soarer or a 'A70 Supra. People say the bellhousing shape is the same! I'll believe it when I see it, otherwise it will be a messy conversion. I am aiming for a reliable 400rwkw. T72 ball bearing running about 15psi on 98 RON.

GTST: I forgot to ask where you guys got the headgaskets from... Oh, and, you're shitting me - a car with good modifications, done in Australia (not just arriving on the car) in HPI? That's got to be a first.

Guest Miles B

aaaahhhhh gotcha. nah I'm just sick of seeing the following 2 kinds of articles in HPI:

1. I got this car from Japan, I don't know what's inside the engine but it goes real fast. I put in a new stereo.

2. Here is a car in Japan, built by a Japanese garage, and we don't have many details on what's in the engine.

To me, that magazine is very light on technical detail. I always end up walking away from it going "well I didn't see much special for my 10 bucks". Hardly any "wow, that's something new" (like your supra) or "so THAT'S how they do that". Standard article is like "blah blah Supra popular in Japan, this one handles great, goes real fast, built by this guy who runs this shop here, and he's really cool.. oh, the car had a big turbo, IC and injectors". In the end I just get to hear about how the guy who wrote the article went to Japan and toured some shops and drove fast cars... not much that really benefits me....

Guest jzz30

Miles B

A turbo setup won't fit in a UZZ3* soarer (soarer v8) engine bay

the engine bay of a v8 soarer is quite cramped as it is, you will have to supercharge.. check out www.planetsoarer.com for supercharged V8 soarers.

IMHO its best to go with the TT.. better brakes diff driveline and engine is already blown ;)

Guest Miles B

jzz30: thank you for your advice but I have done my research. I also have a UZZ31 sitting in my garage.

Yes. It is possible to fit a turbo in. There are two main alternatives:

1) 2 small turbos mounted low, possibly on cut stock headers. Disadvantage: low power gain.

2) Move the battery and fuse box to the trunk. Probably change the hydraulic pump powered fan to an electric fan. Now there is plenty of room for a big turbo, and a good 6 inches between the back of the fan and the front of the engine pulleys.

On the other hand you have supercharging. With a twin screw blower on top of the engine, you have no intercooling. You have to go for the (IMHO) inferior water or alcohol injection, and hit maybe 8 or 10 psi tops. With a centrifugal, like a Novi, you move the battery and it fits right there perfectly, with plenty of clearance for the extra pulley and belt. I think this is the setup Area 51 went for in the states, and it worked quite well. I just prefer turbo... you can manage your boost a lot better.

The supercharger being developed by Andy/Peter on planetsoarer is good for the money - around 60 or 70 kW gain.. but I am after a lot more. Just because it hasn't been done, doesn't mean it's impossible. You want a tight bay, look under the hood of a 300ZX. And they get 2 turbos in there!

IMHO it's best to go with the V8 LTD. It has all the interior options I want, and a bigger engine to boost - more power off lower boost. Also, it's something different - anyone can slap a T04 on a 1JZ...

Guest Miles B

The compression and rev limit would have to be out of this world. With only 4 litres of fuel/air to draw in per 2 revolutions, there is a shortage of actual chemical energy... unless you run it at like 10k RPM+.

For street motors, the biggest N/A chevs I have seen are the Lingenfelters.. they only make about 700, with stroker kits. I would guess you are talking pure drag motor.. and probably a big block running methanol or something that detonates less readily under higher compression? Also, remember even the small block chevs start at 5.7 litres. That's almost 50% bigger than a Soarer motor. I would be absolutely astounded to see a street chev n/a making close to 1000hp. Even just as a drag motor, rebuilt often, that would be impressive.

Take for example the Viper engine. Similar to a small block chev (single cam, 2 valve), except it is 488ci - thats 8 litres. The Team Oreca Viper GTSR only made around 800hp. Guys building up drag Vipers in the states hit around 800hp with 500ci stroked/bored. I don't see how it would be possible to get 1000hp out of a 4 litre V8 on petrol.

Xeron,

I'd have to agree with Miles, unless your using Methanol there is no chance of that sort of power. My mates with the twin-turbo 1UZ have run a 8.5sec pass( first ever run), but are having some issues with internals. This is better than there previous best of 8.9 from a big-block chev running methanol.

See'ya:burnout:

Guest Miles B

8.5! Any idea what sort of boost they get up to before the internals give up? I am thinking the rods and maybe pistons are the weaker links.. the rods are forged, but I heard they are made by some wierd process using powdered metal?? Seems like the 2JZ, although smaller, is stronger. But then, it's smaller :) I have heard the stock 2JZ can stand up to over 20 psi if intercooled and fueled properly.. hoping the 1UZ can hold 16 to 18 for a year or so.

Miles,

They already had forged everything already in it, but in a drag car making over 1000bhp things have a way of breaking. I think they were running a conservative 16psi. They are building it stronger now, they are hoping to move into the 7's with it.

See'ya:burnout:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...