Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have used one.

They certainly control boost. My stock turbo didn't like the boost I gave it though (operator error).

Now my Wife would not let me put it back in after turbo rebuild :(

El Bee

ps For sale IEBC and Hand Controller assembled and working. Will post something soon in appropriate section.

Yeah i know the thread, but how many people are using it? Just SK

Sk certainly swears by the Jaycar stuff, he gained 30kw by memory. A few people use it (successfully), but its too hard to tell, maybe no more than a 'bakers dozen' from what I can tell.

Q - can you solder and put together electronics? If so, then give it a go. But if you get it wrong.... a lot of time and effort wasted.

If not, maybe buy a Hybrid brand EBC? I got one for $300, just to replace the manual Turbosmart boost controller in the engine bay. Buy it from Flynn Performance by memory. Saves your time in soldering and putting the jaycar kit together.

Brendan :)

im trying to use one, got it in the car but not happening at the moment, im gonna get one of those $22 boost controller things while i try to get it working

Did you put it together yourself, solder it etc?

Thats why I didnt go that route, and bought the Hybrid EBC instead.... just didnt trust myself to do a 100% perfect job. Plus the time factor to do it properly as well (you know how it is, Ive got three women to please - car,bike,wife, and my kiddie to keep happy, ). :)

Not saying that you didnt do it right and proper, but I thought that if I bought a EBC and it didnt work, then it could be returned to the seller!

Brendan

yeh its a bit of a pain but ive learnt a bit while putting them together and in the car....its funny messing around with the ecu wires lol dont know what im doing really

dam screen comes up with blocks on the top line and no numerals or letters on the lcd :) sooo if any ideas

yeh its a bit of a pain but ive learnt a bit while putting them together and in the car....its funny messing around with the ecu wires lol dont know what im doing really

dam screen comes up with blocks on the top line and no numerals or letters on the lcd :P  sooo if any ideas

From memory (failing as it is) this could be just an adjustment of a pot, or making sure you have the "dot" and "line" chips in the correct places.

El Bee

if SydneyKid recommends it then you know its good regardless of whether or not anyone else uses it..

after all, he is god, isn't he?

No, but I talk to HER occasionally :P

I don't think SHE listens though :)

So far I have communicated with around 10 -12 guys running the Jaycar IEBC and/or DFA. All have reported great success. But you really do need to know how to build electronics kits, I have fixed 3 that guys have had problems with. Mostly simple stuff, like missing links or IC's the wrong way around.

:) cheers :)

Ive got the IEBC and DFA. Both work, but as yet have not been installed and tuned.

Building the kits was not that hard, but i have done a little bit of soldering before and was VERY careful and checked everything as i did it.

I've got mine in. It was easy to build and install. I have done a little soldering in my time, and i used a wiring diagram to find the right wires to splice into. The boost comes on hard and fast now, with my rb25 turbo on the rb20 i get about 14psi at about 2800 rpm and it holds spot on all the way through the rev range.

For 150 cash you cant go wrong.

ok.. let me rephrase then "WOW those pre-assembled BOOST CONTROLLER modules are very expensive at nearly $300 - you may as well buy a 2nd hand Profec, Blitz, etc EBC for that price" :):D I was just having a look on that page and speaking in general, lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...