Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys. Im gonna need allot of help soon as im being SEVERELY ripped off by just cars, so im going to take my car back and repair it myself covering the costs. So, question is, can anyone here help me by giving me some pointers/directions where to get decent priced replacement parts/workshops/panel beaters?

I just need some replacement panels for the GTS-x, standard RB20 intercooler (will probably be going front mount after this), new radiator (same deal, aftermarket), and supposedly a new turbo, which i honestly think wasn't harmed at all, same as the radiator (radiator MAY BE, but i have my doubts). As for the body, i just need replacement LHF 1/4 panels, bonnet, and whole front bar including headlights etc etc.

Any help pleeeassseee.

I dearly love my car, and there is not a chance in bloody hell the insurance company is gonna screw me over for this, and im not letting them auction it off either, not by a long bloody shot.

Basically i need prices for all the panels, someone who wants to give me a REASONABLE quote on labor etc etc so i can shove the figures in the insurance company's face and then repair it myself.

See, the thing that ticked me off here is, they said it'd take $2000 alone just to repair/replace the intercooler, radiator and turbo on my car, and it's a standard ECCS RB20 setup. So, how's all that make sense when i can get a replacement engine fitted for that price? including the standard cooler etc etc?

Anyway, any and all help is appreceated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88615-help-needed/
Share on other sites

u had full comp insurance, ay?

how much is ur excess?

so far from ur post it looks like u need new:

LHF panel,

front bar,

engine,

radiator

if all these things are damaged, i bet there's a lot of other things destroyed..

i'd just pay the excess and get them to fix most of it.. it'd be cheaper that way

or are they saying it's a write-off?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88615-help-needed/#findComment-1600025
Share on other sites

they are saying it's a write off, when i know it isn't.

excess is $2100, which i was more than happy to pay.

Engine isn't damaged, i was able to drive it after and park it up the street. Intercooler, most likely, turbo, very very very unlikely, but ok, radiator, yea maybe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88615-help-needed/#findComment-1600034
Share on other sites

they are saying it's a write off, when i know it isn't.

excess is $2100, which i was more than happy to pay.

Engine isn't damaged, i was able to drive it after and park it up the street. Intercooler, most likely, turbo, very very very unlikely, but ok, radiator, yea maybe.

repairing body damage is more costly than u might think

first u gotta get the parts the get them sprayed.. it'll cost u quite a bit...

have u got any pics of the accident? if they reckon it's a writeoff, then there has to be other things damaged besides an intercooler and radiator..

do u have any wheel damage? did the car steer properly?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88615-help-needed/#findComment-1600080
Share on other sites

i can get a full respray done for $1500.

Car steered fine, other than guard rubbing, no suspension damaged or bent.

It's just body damage and indicators /lights etc.

I KNOW it's not a write off.

Please help a fellow SAUer and a skyline fanatic fight back for his pride and joy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88615-help-needed/#findComment-1600098
Share on other sites

Let them write it off and then buy it back and fix it with change to spare.

I think JC will let you buy the wreck as a repairable write off and then you can do what you want.

I also think the figures you have quoted for resprays and motors is a bit lowball. To buy the motor might be $2k for a second hand unit, but insurance companies must use new or reconditioned parts and reputable repaires. A $1500 respray is a backyarders price with no prep work.

I think most insurance companies work on the 60% insured damage and its a write off.

Speak to JC and see if they will sell the wreck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88615-help-needed/#findComment-1600301
Share on other sites

Pretty sure once it's declared a write off that's it.. not much you can do as the VIN gets listed as a write off..

However - I think you'll be surprised on parts.. make sure the chassis hasn't been bent at all..

I'm surprised from the list of damage that everything is fine.. any chance of more details on the incident and what happened?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88615-help-needed/#findComment-1600424
Share on other sites

There are 2 types of write offs.

Repairable and non repairable.

The non repairable are registered with the RTA and cannot ever be reregistered in Oz, but the repairable ones are written off due to $'s not damage and do not require anything more than a blueslip when they are registered

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88615-help-needed/#findComment-1600632
Share on other sites

There are 2 types of write offs.

Repairable and non repairable.

The non repairable are registered with the RTA and cannot ever be reregistered in Oz, but the repairable ones are written off due to $'s not damage and do not require anything more than a blueslip when they are registered

^^^ What he said. Its most likely that this car is a financial (or repairable) writeoff, but obviously check first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88615-help-needed/#findComment-1600642
Share on other sites

it's repairable. All the parts required will cost about $2100....

Supposedly it's going to be a nightmare to ensure this car again, so i don't know what im going to do. I think im going to have to give up the skyline dream once again, THANKS TO f**kING JUST CARS.

I also spoke to the evaluator who said that the intercooler would cost $2000 to replace, the intercooler alone, funny how the exact same cooler was costed up at $195 by just jap today....

Anyway, i think i might have to move onto something different, thanks to a certain insurance company, and certain evaluators

So yea, i got price for parts, respray, and got a rough idea of labour from asking some mechanics at work, and i calculated it using our own labour rate. All up it'll cost around $4500 to repair fully (probably less cos i was REALLY generous with the labour rate)

I'd take them to court if

A) i had the money for the lawyer

and B..) It was insured in my step-dad's name and i wasn't a nomiated driver

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88615-help-needed/#findComment-1602587
Share on other sites

You need to calm down mate - speak to Just Cars, tell them you want to buy the wreck and then repair it yourself (if it's repairable, then it'll only be a financial write off and you'll be able to get your car re-registered). You probably won't end up loosing too much money that way either - you might even end up recouping some of your excess.

I know insurance companies always try to screw the little guy, but you have to remember that they wouldn't write your car off and pay out your policy if it was cheaper to repair your car. It wouldn't make sense...

Good luck with it mate - hope you get it all sorted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88615-help-needed/#findComment-1603391
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...