Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was looking at these kits damn cheap! i was guna buy just the piping but i was waiting till it went down to 200 it got to 240 then someone started bidding bugger! then was just guna get a gtr cooler

yeah the core is you 600x300x76 and by the looks has nice straight welds and fins and just to make sure i spoke to the supplier and got there opion and a few other people who have purchased and say it ,is equal if not better than hybrid and is very light ,so now i am eagerly waiting ,by the way does any1 have some pics of the cooler install ,in particular with the bar off and showing how it all fits with the reofitted.

thanks :P:O

strange cos usually drift people, or the like strive on response and ideally a smaller core would be preferred. i would have though a 450x300x75 would be more suited as there would be less volume on the inlet system thus reducing throttle lag as much as possible but still retaining a good fmic setup. the arc ones are setup like this and are mega expensive.

is the cooler really a "drift" cooler? just sounds more like a marketing hype

ive got a 600x300 one at home that i never ended up using cos it was too big and ended up getting a 480x300x75 core which worked really well, well i guess compared to the stocker unit anyway. bigger is not always better

strange cos usually drift people, or the like strive on response and ideally a smaller core would be preferred. i would have though a 450x300x75 would be more suited as there would be less volume on the inlet system thus reducing throttle lag as much as possible but still retaining a good fmic setup. the arc ones are setup like this and are mega expensive.

is the cooler really a "drift" cooler? just sounds more like a marketing hype

The brand of the cooler kits is "Drift 1" or as known to some people as D1. That doesn’t mean the coolers are for people who have there cars set up for drift. its quite a popular brand over in the states and the piping is made out aircraft grade quality aluminum. My mate has the D1 kit on his 32 and works great. The piping is perfect with the kits and cooler coolers are good as well however I’m not sure if the coolers are genuine D1 coolers, the piping is though. The cooler my mate got with his kit just look like the hybrid copies that people are selling I may be wrong though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...