Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is this car ok to drive, i have spoekn to a LOT of people and it seems everyone thinks half half like 50% say it isnt ok and 50% say it is ok, even if it is just over do the cops know or really care ? as i've seen heaps of P platers driving them around, most look modded too whereas im just getting a stock one until im off my Ps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8890-vic-p-plates-and-gts-t-m-type/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sweet :D i would have still bought it anyways lol, im getting it tomorrow, but just tomorrow gotta do a last check that it aint stolen on that REVS site thingo, the guy seems legit and its never been registerd or driven in australia yet he says as far as he knows its never been crashed and he's a panel beater and the engine aint modded as far as i ciuld see its in mint condition, but what should i check before paying and finalising the deal ? i've test driven it and found one wheel bearing was out but he replaced it and fuixed the scratches and dents on it he's respraying the bonnet tomorrow morning so he's going out of his way to make it nice its just i wanna make sure im paying for a car that aint gonna give me troubles if i look after it ya know ? any suggestions or does it sound like i've talen necessary rpecautions?

hmm, my loan is hopefully coming to me tomorrow (the funds coz its been approved) and i've arranged to pay him and get it registered tomorrow afternoon :S perhaps ill say to him can he write something saying you know its in a great condition and he will refund my money if it isnt, he did get it fully complied and road worthied so would that mean it is in good condition, you see im confused its the first car i've ever bought, the other car i had i inherited from the parents until i was going to buy a car ( 6 months ago i got my Ps and now im getting my car :D

best bet is to take it to a mechanic and have it looked over. The compliance and rwc doesnt mean the car is any good.

Also, it is illegal for P platers to drive a gtst, but no one seems to care. The power to weight ratio of a gtst is roughly 130kw per tonne where it is meant to be 115kw per tonne or less for p platers. Becuase the car was never sold new in aus, the police and vic roads dont have it listed in their books, so you shouldnt have any problems. If you do, just tell them its a non turbo :D

its 125 per tonne :D so it isnt that bad, just put a fat bitch in my boot and ill be legal :)

but yeah my mum know s afair bit about cars and she's gunna come with me tomorrow and give it a quick drive to see if there seems to be anything major wrong, but the guy seem legit so i guess after my mum gives it the ok i just gotta pray, ill get it checked after i get it so i know whtehr to break the guys nuts or not :P

Guest alexR33

Hi mate, I've just been through the same thing as your regarding the power to weight ratio and the GTSt r33. It is technically illegal, although as the car hasn't been australian released the guidelines given by vic roads are flawed and if it did go to court, you have many avenues to have the case dismissed. I did speak to the traffic operations group about this, no one there thought it was illegal. I said I could not find out as it was non aus released and I have not got an education in Japanese and cannot ring Nissan JAPAN. The guy told me even if it is over, it should not be a problem as it is more the V8s and so on that they worry about. Also he mentioned if i did get in trouble for it to organise an engineers report after taking away some power at the engine so as it came up under the power to weight. So realistically you should not have a problem.

About the car, it is amazing how the conditions of the skylines at auctions in Japan vary. MOst of these under the current laws in aus get compliance and road worthy very easily. Especically if the guy is a mechanic, he would know people who would do a road worthy for him without too much or any work. So in my opinion you should get a mechanic to check the car out who knows about imports. If you would like a name of someone private message me... RACV checks usually lack the individual specialisation that some mechanics would have that specialise in Jap imports. An idea would be to find out what auction grade the car is, and get hold of this auction certificate if the guy privately imported the car, which he obviously did, he should know the auction grade at the very least. If it is 3.5 or 4. the cars would be in a very good condition. Unfortunataly a lot of the cars coming in are grade 0 which is an accident repaired vehicle, most of these you can't notice a fault as they have been repaired very well! If you can, maybe stall the guy. Say you definitely want it, but it's a lot of money so don't feel pushed into taking it tomorrow. Just stall him and get it checked out.

Anyway, let me know how it goes!

Alex

he is fixing the small dents that were on the bonet and one on the door and he is re-spraying the bonnet and he found a wheel bearing and a leaking exhaust manifold all of which he has replaced, so to e he seems legit its just i dont wanna get screwed so ill try and get my mechanic around to his house to give it a check before i buy it :D

im pissing this guy im buying it form off i've called him about 7 times already today :S and i can tell he's pissed now LOL! anyways he said it was auction grade 5, but im not going to get a chance to have the car looked at before i buy it and register it under my name as it cant be driven as its not near the guys house (an area where you can drive un registered cars coz there are no cops around) so i cant take it out unless ive registered it and i cant register it until i've bought it, oh well im sure its fine it seemed 100% when i test drove it we'll just have to see how i go when i've got it tomorrow :D

this topic pops up every 2 weeks it seems...

for the record

1.) yes its illegal

2.) cops know its illegal

3.) no one really seems to care

4.) if its illegal as shown by the power to weight ratio and you go to court well you'll get fined no doubt about it!...

*************************************************

Originally posted by akeenan

pushead - i just wanted to tell you your car looks nearly identical to mine. when i got mine i had never seen a gun metal grey one before, now they are popping up everywhere :) ....sorry back to the thread

lol, exactly the same.. thought it was a rare colour..:D

does yours have the fitted fog lights also?

and to everyone: GUNMETAL GREY IS THE BEST COLOUR!! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...