Is My Turbo Dead? :(

[PranK]

Ok, few questions I have been meaning to ask for a while.

My turbo has started making a 'shuttering' induction noise. So instead of the normal smooth sounding induction its lumpy sounding, like its not spooling smoothly at all. You cant feel it doing anything different (apart from the other problem, below) but you can hear it spooling strangely. The other problem is that it *feels* like I still have the standard dual stage boost control when I have replaced the BC with an AVCR. I dont seem to get much boost at all until right on 5000RPM. This happens regardless of what boost level I have the AVCR set to (standard, 0.6 Bar or 0.8Bar - usually driven on standard). I am almost hoping its dead as thats my excuse to the wife to get GCG to rebuild the sucker. But, that pushes my manual conversion back another month or 2.

Second quick question, The RSFour V has the V-Spec active rear diff, right? Thats why I get the clunkiness in reverse at lock? Or occasionally in gear at lock. Doesn't happen regularly. Just making sure.

Oh, and SK (only asking you as you seem to have more expereience in this area), from a SITC, Nismo FPR and the Jaycar fuel computer, can I expect much better fuel economy?

Thanks guys

Christian

[Tangles]

I hope all turns out for the best PranK. Go the GCG.... ! You dont 'need' a manual, being a tall fella and all that! (there's no way in hell Id be able to drive the Stagea as a manual, being over 2metres tall).

Ive got a brand new Apexi SITC and the Nismo FPR, and already have a SAFC tuned, etc etc.

Will let you know how fuel economy goes when I have everything retuned for the SITC, FPR, fuel pump, fuel lines, Z32 AFM, etc.

Probably not for another month or so (just waiting on a price from the workshop who'll do the work for me, including retuning the SAFC). I was going to up it to 11psi, but upon reading this thread, I dont think I will!!! (dual stage ebc, tuned at 7 & 10psi)

Brendan

Edited September 27, 2005 by bwilkeson

[Terminal]

I had a really bad sputtering coming from my turbo for a whlie, then it would revert to stock-like feeling of boosting, as in it had none. it turns out my boost controller had adjusted itself and was spiking really badly. i just had to turn the boost down and it's fine now. i don't know if that's similar to your problem, but it's the cheapest one i can think of

[someonestolecc]

I heard the AVCR make a noise that's similar to what you described, search to confirm.

Also playing around with the lines maybe something isn't plugged in right or the hoses are too long now?

[AlexCim]

What happend to me when i installed my EBC was this

I set my map to go like this (just an idea) (high number, more limited boost)

500 - 0

1000 - 0

1500 - 0

2000 - 0

2500 - 60

3000(full boost) - 70

What i found is that when i cruised at near constant RPM, the load points would flick between 0 and 60. This would make my boost shutter and feel almost as if the rev limiter is going off....

So i made the boost limiting curve more smooth, and i now no longer have this problem.

Prank, as for a manual conversion, its not as expensive as you may think. Without interior parts, ive managed to pick up the following

r33 gear box - 850

GTST master cyl/slave cyl/clutch pedal box/brake pedal box - 350

GTST handbrake (still to buy) ~50

Clutch - what ever your budget is, ill spend around 1000-1300 for a big single

PFC - 960 in group buy on SAU

Labour - 700

PFC tune - 250

So, its pretty standard after that for the install but i am yet to do it for another month or so (need to get PFC)

For putting the PFC in, use a GTST plug and make an adaptor or re-plug the engine harness to suit GTST PFC plug (which is what im doing)

Interior parts, ill work that out after i am driving around a manual. I dont mind that special ghetto look

[Sydneykid]

Ok, few questions I have been meaning to ask for a while.

My turbo has started making a 'shuttering' induction noise. So instead of the normal smooth sounding induction its lumpy sounding, like its not spooling smoothly at all. You cant feel it doing anything different (apart from the other problem, below) but you can hear it spooling strangely. The other problem is that it *feels* like I still have the standard dual stage boost control when I have replaced the BC with an AVCR. I dont seem to get much boost at all until right on 5000RPM. This happens regardless of what boost level I have the AVCR set to (standard, 0.6 Bar or 0.8Bar - usually driven on standard). I am almost hoping its dead as thats my excuse to the wife to get GCG to rebuild the sucker. But, that pushes my manual conversion back another month or 2.

Second quick question, The RSFour V has the V-Spec active rear diff, right? Thats why I get the clunkiness in reverse at lock? Or occasionally in gear at lock. Doesn't happen regularly. Just making sure.

Oh, and SK (only asking you as you seem to have more expereience in this area), from a SITC, Nismo FPR and the Jaycar fuel computer, can I expect much better fuel economy?

Thanks guys

Christian

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Wow, lots of questions;

1. Sounds like a boost controller problem, try reverting to standard plumbing and see if the noise persists.

2. Yep, ours gets the cluckiness in reverse most times, but it comes from the front not the rear. I will have another look, tomorrow while I am installing to the Whiteline rear springs. But I am sure ours has a "normal" rear diff, no extra stuff hanging off it.

3. The DFA on its own gave me a 10% improvement in fuel economy. That's with the standard exhaust, I reckon there is another 5% in upgrading it (turbo back). Once I finish the exhaust I will give the SITC a quick tune, it's installed, just not tuned yet.

cheers

[Tangles]

Wow, lots of questions;

1. Sounds like a boost controller problem, try reverting to standard plumbing and see if the noise persists.

2. Yep, ours gets the cluckiness in reverse most times, but it comes from the front not the rear.  I will have another look, tomorrow while I am installing to the Whiteline rear springs.  But I am sure ours has a "normal" rear diff, no extra stuff hanging off it.

3. The DFA on its own gave me a 10% improvement in fuel economy.  That's with the standard exhaust, I reckon there is another 5% in upgrading it (turbo back).  Once I finish the exhaust I will give the SITC a quick tune, it's installed, just not tuned yet.

cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hmm, I dont have any clunkiness (that Ive come across as yet) on my Stagea - must be one of the lucky onse.

With the SITC, SK, how long do you expect tuning to take? Do you do it on the dyno, etc?

Im going to take my Z32AFM, SITC, & Nismo regulator to the workshop, have it all installed along with highpressure fuel lines and amp up the power to the fuelpump... how long do you reckon it might take to tune the SITC and retune the SAFC?

Also, is it better to highflow the standard turbo currently on the car (in good condition, I think), ot highflow a rebuilt R33 turbo?

Cheers, Brendan

[Sydneykid]

1. Hmm, I dont have any clunkiness (that Ive come across as yet) on my Stagea - must be one of the lucky onse.

2. With the SITC, SK, how long do you expect tuning to take?

3. Do you do it on the dyno, etc?

4. Im going to take my Z32AFM, SITC, & Nismo regulator to the workshop, have it all installed along with highpressure fuel lines and amp up the power to the fuelpump... how long do you reckon it might take to tune the SITC and retune the SAFC?

5. Also, is it better to highflow the standard turbo currently on the car (in good condition, I think), ot highflow a rebuilt R33 turbo?

Cheers, Brendan

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Brendan, suggestion follow;

1. It only happens when you have full lock on and reversing.

2. Just the SITC on its own should take a few minutes, it's only 5 load points. The time may be consumed in retuning the SAFC. Because you can do some retarding with the SITC to offset some of the unwanted advancing that happens when you reduce the AFM voltages to get the A/F ratios where you want them. It ends up being a bit of a go round, fine tune one, then the other. But I can't see it taking more than an hour.

3. No you could tune the SITC on the road by listening for pre-igntion, but it is a bit hard as you end up doing warp speed soemtimes to get enough load. Best done on the dyno.

4. Retuning the SAFC for the Z32 AFM is a bitch, basically you have to start again from scratch as the voltage ramps are totally different. So however long it took to do the original tune plus a bit as it will require some more adjustment than the standard AFM.

5. No diffference, everything that wears is replaced, so it doesn't matter what condition the turbo you have high flowed is in. Its a bit more convenient as you can swap them over easily in a few hours. Otheriwse you will have to wait a few days (no car) while yours is high flowed.

Hope that answered your questions

cheers

[Tangles]

Thank you Sir-SK!

....so very informative, thanks heaps!

(not looking forward to 5hrs dyno time again!)

Brendan