Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock R32 Gts-t Power Output

Big Rizza

By Big Rizza,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

just over 130rwkw... nice work

when you say "stock other than a pod filter" what exactly does this mean? to me it means stock exhaust and everything.. but to others, "stock" means including other modifications

if it truly is what i refer to as stock then that's a good (read: high) result for an rb20 with NO mods at all..

do you have a print-out of the dyno graph that you can post up? (don't forget to black-out your numberplate off the top corner)

cheers,

Warren.

Big Rizza Mentor

Big Rizza

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

yeah I have the printout but no scanner. Will take it to uni next week and copy it.

Also have an aftermarket muffler which probably liberated a few kws.

edit: still running standard boost, stock intercooler etc.

Edited by Big Rizza
  • 1 month later...
Big Rizza Mentor

Big Rizza

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

post-18125-1131009014.jpg

I know this thread is old and forgotten, but I bought a scanner the other day and I need an excuse to use it. So here it is, my magnificent dyno printout from a couple of months ago.

Edited by Big Rizza
jazza08 Mentor

jazza08

Posted
Posted

What did Hyperdrive do Ryan? You only have a pod filter and 177hp is a very impressive figure, just to let ppl know hyperdrive dyno's do NOT read high at all either.

What did this 'tune' involve? Was it basically just a service or what dude?

wal Collaborator

wal

Posted
Posted

That sounds pretty impressive for stocks.

I have just got my GTSt,

it has a garret t03 hiflow turbo, 3" dump and a 3" exhaust. Everything else is standard as far as I know.

Any idea what kind of power I should epect at the wheels?

May be a stupid question but I have barly driven it and I'm pretty excited to find out.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

No doubt the muffer has helped. :(

My stock GTST dead stock everything made 115rwkw (154rwhp), a little tweak of the afr's (fuel pressure bleed) made 125rwkw (167rwhp). This was on 95ron premium as at the time 98 ron was rare.

A full exhaust it made 140rwkw (187rwhp) but on a different dyno.

A full exhaust 1.5psi extra (up to 12.5psi) and it made 152rwkw (203rwhp) .

FMIC and external bosh pump it made 164rwkw (219rwhp) on 15psi with a fuel pressure bleeder as it was running too rich and killing power.

With 164rwhp it was fairly quick, quite a nice setup to be honest, it would launch 0-100 in around 5.2secs consistently with no wheel spin, which went on to see 175km/h in 13secs.

Start pushing more power and it began loosing traction, with not so consistent 0-100times.

Edited by Cubes
  • 4 weeks later...
sanger Community Regular

sanger

Posted
Posted

Pod style air filter,

Turbo back exhaust.

144kw at the rear wheels

up from 110kw at rear wheels stock.

And to all those that keep saying stock 130kw at wheels are pulling them selves.

Stock means same as factory. not just a pod or just a muffler or just anything. stock s stock modified is modified.

end whinge. :huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...