Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone point me in the right direction to get these items for a good price?

RB74 pads - front and rear - R33 GTST

RDA slotted rotors - front and rear - R33 GTST

Motul RBF600 brake fluid.

Anyone know of a good caliper upgrade that doesnt cost a fortune.

Ive searched but results where limited.

cheers :)

Edited by gR33ddy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89517-where-to-get-rb74-pads-rda-rotors/
Share on other sites

Well i just recently (last week) got a set of slotted DBA 4000 rotars front and rear, ferodo DS 2500 pads front, and race brakes comp 2 pads front (i can give you the exact codes if you want). I also got them to flush the brakes and put MOTUL oil in it (wat ever the top one is)

Cost in parts were $1285 inc GST

Well i just recently (last week) got a set of slotted DBA 4000 rotars front and rear, ferodo DS 2500 pads front, and race brakes comp 2 pads front (i can give you the exact codes if you want). I also got them to flush the brakes and put MOTUL oil in it (wat ever the top one is)

Cost in parts were $1285 inc GST

Whereabouts?

Can you give me the individual prices?

thnx.

From Mercury Motorsport in Brisbane.

DBA 4963 SL & SR rotors $409.09

DBA 4908 SL & SR rotors $409.09

Ferodo DS 2500 DB1170 brake pads $227.27

Race Brakes Comp 2 DB1220 brake pads $122.73

The Ferodo's are very dusty, but they are an awesome set of brakes :). No fade at all even stopping constantly from high speeds (200+ lol).

I Highly reccomend them, also they make your wheels look heaps better being slotted :).

Shane

From Mercury Motorsport in Brisbane.

DBA 4963 SL & SR rotors $409.09

DBA 4908 SL & SR rotors $409.09

Ferodo DS 2500 DB1170 brake pads $227.27

Race Brakes Comp 2 DB1220 brake pads $122.73

The Ferodo's are very dusty, but they are an awesome set of brakes :). No fade at all even stopping constantly from high speeds (200+ lol).

I Highly reccomend them, also they make your wheels look heaps better being slotted :(.

Shane

Thanks Shane. Gives me a rough idea on prices.

I sent mercury an email earlier today regarding there items.

I imagine they are closed over the weekend.

Also emailed racebrakes and discbrakes australia.

From the research I have done so far, I have discovered that RDA make a good quality rotor and are cheaper than the DBA's.

Havent found a negative response for em yet.

Id like to give them a go, anyone know some prices for the RDA's?

I can also get ferodas cheap from a supplier in the UK, but apparently they cant get rears for R33 GTST.

I'll kep them in mind though.

:)

Get your racebrakes pads from www.racebrakes.com.au

May as well get them from the people who make them.

Thats what I reckon - eliminates the middleman.

Im just waiting on a response from them.

Is there any other places that sell these items online or retail?

Cheers :)

I cant find the receipt but im pretty sure my rb74 for the front of my r32 gtst were about $150 delivered.

I got a quote for them via email, they were pretty quick. I think they replied in 1 or 2 days, a heap better than most companies out there who just bin all there email inquiries.

I cant find the receipt but im pretty sure my rb74 for the front of my r32 gtst were about $150 delivered.

I got a quote for them via email, they were pretty quick. I think they replied in 1 or 2 days, a heap better than most companies out there who just bin all there email inquiries.

Thats a decent price. it'd be good to get away with upgrading my brakes and rotors for under 1K.

I know what you mean about most companies not responding.

Major potential loss of business in my opinion, probably got too much to deal with.

Thnx 4 da info.

No probs mate.

Never heard of RDA.

You'd be pushing to get the lot for under 1k (and then you gotta install them).

Will be interesting to see how u go.

Shane

RDA - Rotors and Drums Australia

There an Australian company and they are known on the forum.

Heres there site - www.rdabrakes.com.au

Im going to try and see if I can get a better price for a bulk deal (group buy maybe)

Should get the lot for under 1k and I'd install them myself to save $$$.

;)

Edited by gR33ddy
Just watch out for RDA.. We have 4 cars here running RB74 2 cars with DBA and 2 with RDA..

The 2 with RDA are getting heat spots already..  one only done 2kkm and other only 3kkm..

Hmmm. Good to get some feedback.

Anyone else use RDA's and had the same problem?

Cheers ;)

I bought a set of rb74's for my front calipers (r33/r32 gtr) and they cost $160. Expect freight to cost just under $20.

Race brakes express posted them to me here in SA.

With my 2 way diff, and r33 rebuilt calipers up front, i find the rb74 pads on the front are a pretty good match for the rear when it locks up under braking....

Have you checked your calipers are working 100% to start with gR33dy? My tyres are now my braking weak point due to the brakes working as they should ;)

I bought a set of rb74's for my front calipers (r33/r32 gtr) and they cost $160. Expect freight to cost just under $20.

Race brakes express posted them to me here in SA.

With my 2 way diff, and r33 rebuilt calipers up front, i find the rb74 pads on the front are a pretty good match for the rear when it locks up under braking....

Have you checked your calipers are working 100% to start with gR33dy? My tyres are now my braking weak point due to the brakes working as they should :D

thnx 4 da info.

I havent had my calipers checked properly yet, although they feel ok.

I will probably get them rebuilt eventually or even some aftermarket ones?

And also upgrade the lines.

How much did the caliper rebuild set you back?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...