Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was wondering if anyone here has 6x9's in there parcal shelf and what modifications they had to get to fit? im on the border line of deciding wether to make a new parcal shelf which is thicker, and lift the 6x9 higher so it doesnt hit the shelf. please help! if u have 6x9's can u post a photo please?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89807-6x9s-in-parcal-shelf/
Share on other sites

I've only seen or heard about two ways to do this..

either just cut out the parcel tray enough to fit in the speakers (then use rubber surrounds or something if you like).. or I've also seen a guy build a kinda box for the shelf - the speakers were on like a 30 degree angle facing the cabin. It was quite interesting, looked pretty sweet, and worked :) (just be sure to cut the centre in order to see through your review mirror.

otherwise just go buy a couple of 6/6.5s :) I prefer them over 6*9s anyway

  • 2 weeks later...

i think they might sound better in the little boxes?

i have alpine type r 6" round speakers in the factory holes in my R33 and they sound shocking.... no bass at all from them and i think its because there not sorta sealed in a box kinda thing??

Dave

Edited by r33freely

go for 6 inches if you are gonna have a sub or 2 if not go 6x9's [got to have bass =)]

best thing to do is make a new tray out of the thickest mdf u can fit ...

mount it back in with some bolts and foam tape <-- to stop any vibration ...

the more solid your parcel tray is the better ...

i will be trying to do this on the weekdend aswell as sound deaden the doors a fix the crazy rattles comming from my boot

cause at the moment my car sound like a marca on steroids =(

oh and whatever you do make sure you cater for child restraints its illegal not to have them !!!

just out of curiousity whats the front stage of you system like???

Edited by MsG_ChRiS
You serious?  That sucks as I can't put them back in :D

I realised that after i put in my speakers too.

I have the same setup as elbee.

I wouldnt recommend hacking into your parcel tray. looks a bit messy and once u do it its doen foreever..

I got a thick bit of mdf, and basically cut it to shape using the existing parcel tray. Has to be slightly smaller coz it sits higher, and the angle of the window comes into it. The wood is about 2 cm thick. sat the 6x 9s into it. There isnt much room to move and play with, and the speakers sit at a 45 degree angle like in elbees pic.

Thick wood and a bit of foam tape around the bottom to stop it vibrating from the bass the sub pumps out and your set.

Sounds really good.

Might be an idea to cut some holes into it and cover it with carpet or vinyl so the boot isnt completely sealed. Want to let some sound waves through!

Too late now :) I think I'll look into it when I install an amp / sub...

ATM it still looks like I have three harness mounts, I re-used the original grills so I could retain the top half of the harness mounting (held on using double sided velcro). If I get told off for it, I'll replace it then.

Thanks for your help though :)

  • 2 weeks later...
no its not you need one for each seatbelt so three in total

Hmm, I just finished installing some JBL 3 way 6's in the back and now the metal brackets for the child restraints don't fit as the tweeters get in the way :cheers: any ideas?

  • 2 weeks later...

just installed 6 inch cones in my rear parcel shelf with a subbie and my system is rocking. Just remember when you cut into the rear parchel shelf (The metal) your car can be defected for it.

u can also b rejected when u go for your pink slip then u would have 2 weld in a new shelf.....is illegal 2 cut any meyal in your shelf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...