Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As topic says, how can you identify a Neo turbocharger from the R34 GTT Neo, from a R33 GTSt turbocharger?

Ive got a top condition turbo sitting in front of me, meant to be off a R34 and therefore its a Neo turbo & actuator.

Actuator says 28 4 Z06A and ASN 79

Turbo says 45 V 2

back of turbo says 21 U

post-18854-1128658115.jpg

post-18854-1128658256.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90242-rb25-r34-gtt-neo-turbocharger/
Share on other sites

Had a lookover the turbo, getting a feel for its condition. Actually I reckon the turbo is in fantastic condition with harldy any shaftplay whatsoever. Got it from a forum member for a decent price, and was heaps easy to deal with.

The front turbine looks to be plastic, so thats what the Neo is, isnt it?

Hi yeah, the compressor wheels are supposedly nylon/plastic based and the R34 turbo's are the same as an R33 model (I think the series 2).

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=84465&hl=nylon

and

See http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=87783&hl=nylon

The R34 turbo I had in my grubby hands a little while ago had a black nylon compressor wheel and the turbine housing had stamped OP6 in 2 places. The width of the turbine housing behind the first turbine housing to chra bolt located just after the T3 flange was 50mm.

I've attached a pic where to measure.

21U I am 80% sure that is a R33 turbine housing, that is slightly smaller than the R34 turbine housing I had.

Edited by Cubes

I heard that the R34 GTT turbo is slightly larger, has a plastic/nylon compressor wheel, and is a "wet" ball bearing design.

R33's apparently have a ceramic compressor wheel, and are not ball-bearing?

Feel free to correct me!

All are ball bearing, as all have ceramic turbines.

The R34 also having the 'plastic' compressor wheel.

I think the R33 SII also had a 'plastic' compressor wheel, unsure if it has the larger R34 turbine housing though.

Edited by Cubes
All are ball bearing, as all have ceramic turbines.

The R34 also having the 'plastic' compressor wheel.

I think the R33 SII also had a 'plastic' compressor wheel, unsure if it has the larger R34 turbine housing though.

i checked my old car's turbo, it was a 10/96 model r33 gtst and it definetly had a nylon compressor wheel.

It all looks the same, thanks for the different info guys, thats been extremely helpful. I'll check it over again tonight.

I'll measure it up to see if I get 50mm thickness, and Im sure it has got OP6 in a couple of places.

On one of those threads (for bass junky's sale of turbo) he's got 45V1, where as mine is stamped 45V2 and the pic from Jmac says 45V2 as well.

Hopefully what Ive got then IS the R34 Neo turbo. Just has a different stamp number on the actuator (large 28 rather than a large 29).

Brendan

JMAC - that turbo youve got there - definately off the R34 GTT? Thats what mine looks like. Ive got to measure it up tonight.

Boy this is hard to determine! (without taking the current turbo in the engine off!)

siksII,

What was stamped on the turbine housing? OP6?

Sorry cubes, i honestly dont remember is was about 2 years ago, and the only picture i can find with the turbo in it u can only see the intake side and its too far away to see any detail either :P

But i remember checking the intake blades they were definetly some type of plastic. just by looking u cant really tell but when u touch them u can tell.

my current r33 has stock turbo, but is an earlier model than my old one, this one is an early 96 model(still series 2), i can have a look at the exhaust housing on this one (if i can see it properly!!!) and tell u what it says if you want?

Edited by siksII

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...