Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The ACL's are a good bearing, the race series bearings have a hardened steel backing which keeps them well located in the housings even when they have had some heat. They are fairly soft which is a good thing if there is anything floating around in the oil as it can embed in the bearing. They are not hard on the crank either, not really an issue with an RB as the crank is pretty hard to start with.

I still prefer King bearings, the material is better, only one layer of bearing material about .015" thick on a super hard backing, the alecular material has a melting point almost 3 times higher than the babit on a regular trimetal bearing so there is less chance of delamination even under extreme loads and heat.

Nissan bearings are made by NDC and are a trimetal bearing, I have seen these delaminate when they cop some detonation. I haven't used Nismo bearings, I'm still pretty sure that they are a trimetal bearing, one benefit I suppose is you can buy them graded to adjust clearances but then if the bearing housings are not on size they should be remachined anyway. I haven't had problems getting spot on clearances with the king bearings, all the bearings in a set are guaranteed to be within .0001" tolerance so there is no chance of tolerances stacking up and changing clearances. The other benefit of Kings is the price, they're cheap as dirt compared to Nismo bearings as they are a standard replacement bearing.

The HX bearings run an extra .001" clearance over the H series.

Yeah..thanks for that. I guess ACL reccomend the extra clearance for the 26 because they typically make a bit more power than the RB25.

When they say 1 thou extra clearance, any idea what the clearance will come out at with a brand new crank?

Cheers.

The ACL's are a good bearing, the race series bearings have a hardened steel backing which keeps them well located in the housings even when they have had some heat. They are fairly soft which is a good thing if there is anything floating around in the oil as it can embed in the bearing. They are not hard on the crank either, not really an issue with an RB as the crank is pretty hard to start with.

I still prefer King bearings, the material is better, only one layer of bearing material about .015" thick on a super hard backing, the alecular material has a melting point almost 3 times higher than the babit on a regular trimetal bearing so there is less chance of delamination even under extreme loads and heat.

Nissan bearings are made by NDC and are a trimetal bearing, I have seen these delaminate when they cop some detonation. I haven't used Nismo bearings, I'm still pretty sure that they are a trimetal bearing, one benefit I suppose is you can buy them graded to adjust clearances but then if the bearing housings are not on size they should be remachined anyway. I haven't had problems getting spot on clearances with the king bearings, all the bearings in a set are guaranteed to be within .0001" tolerance so there is no chance of tolerances stacking up and changing clearances. The other benefit of Kings is the price, they're cheap as dirt compared to Nismo bearings as they are a standard replacement bearing.

ok cool ,

so who sells King Bearings and what kind of cost we looking at for a set of bigs and mains.

on another matter the nissan specs clearances are pretty damn good

ie there factory spec 0-3 for main tunnel and main journals is only

+/- 0.0005" for the 4 spec sizes or a mass producted engine thats pretty impressive and no wounder people dont have many problems with tolerances even with out using the 6 grades of nissan bearing.

pete

It has had the alloy plugs that seal off the oil galleries in the crank removed and been tapped to take screw in grub screws to seal the galleries. You need to remove the old plugs when you rebuild the engine to clean the crank properly.

It's a good thing, whoever did your engine did it properly, it doesn't affect anything else.

Warning!!! ACL PRODUCT WARNING. Were supplied new race series forged ACL pistons, rings and bearings for an rb30/25 hybrid. Engine built buy a reputable engine builder and run in by ex Perkins engineering mechanic/tuner. Rattled from new and pulled down at 2000Klms to discover massive wear on the drive side of the bore. Piston to bore clearances measured at 7 tho and within spec. ACL denied refund/replacement and rolled out these excuses in this order. 1. Detonation (cleared after hardness test) 2. Foreign substance in bore (brand new engine run in on dyno with standard air box and new filter) Cleared after excuse number three. 3. Over boosting causing rings to break down and cause abrasion on bore. (Stat decs signed by engine tuners engine stating run in boost set to max of 14psi). ACL now tell me that there FORGED race series pistons are only rated for 10PSI. This engine has a comp of 8.2:1. Standard engine runs 9:1 with cast factory pistons at around 9psi...do the math. Currently taking legal action. Any questions regarding this "race designed product" PLEASE contact me @ [email protected] .This is not a rant, but an opportunity for other people to learn from experience.

post-1044-1129035994.jpg

Warning!!! ACL PRODUCT WARNING. Were supplied new race series forged ACL pistons, rings and bearings for an rb30/25 hybrid. Engine built buy a reputable engine builder and run in by ex Perkins engineering mechanic/tuner. Rattled from new and pulled down at 2000Klms to discover massive wear on the drive side of the bore. Piston to bore clearances measured at 7 tho and within spec. ACL denied refund/replacement and rolled out these excuses in this order. 1. Detonation (cleared after hardness test) 2. Foreign substance in bore (brand new engine run in on dyno with standard air box and new filter) Cleared after excuse number three. 3. Over boosting causing rings to break down and cause abrasion on bore. (Stat decs signed by engine tuners engine stating run in boost set to max of 14psi). ACL now tell me that there FORGED race series pistons are only rated for 10PSI. This engine has a comp of 8.2:1. Standard engine runs 9:1 with cast factory pistons at around 9psi...do the math. Currently taking legal action. Any questions regarding this "race designed product" PLEASE contact me @ [email protected] .This is not a rant, but an opportunity for other people to learn from experience.

7 thou clearance thats f**king hugh what is there recomend clearance on install out of interest

  • 5 years later...

hi there i am in the middle of building a rb30/26 and wanting to use acl race series bearings but they are on back order i have the option of using th hx bearing which give 001" extra oil clearance are there any pro and cons to using these or should i wait for the standard one which will be weeks

ACL are in Liquidation, so stocks are pretty much Zero on things, the extra clearance will help if you want to rev it fairly hard or want to run big power, (if its a 26/30 than I assume you want a fair whack of grunt)

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...