Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I'm finally in the process of looking at cars for purchase, and I'd like a quick guide on what sort of things I should be looking out for when I look at a Stagea in the flesh.

I've seen a few around in yards here in Sydney, and am still considering the import process as well, but would like to get opinions and ideas on any Stagea-specific issues. I've got a fair few mags to refer to in regards to the main things that affect Skylines in general, and can refer to those as well.

Maybe later on we can have this thread added as a "Sticky" at the top of this page and also added to the Tutorials.

Thanks in advance,

Nick T.

:D

I'd like a quick guide on what sort of things I should be looking out for...

Nick T.

I'd like the same!

Just about to buy my first and probably second Stagea at the same time.

Wouldn't mind a few pointers.

Check rust in the sunroof runners, a common place for it to start. also in the door/boot hinges, they're another favourite.

i think the ssame applies for every other car, look out for km's, paint defects or damage etc.

Oh, but make sure it has the front diff/axels if you're getting an RS4. someone in NZ bought what they thought was an RS4, but turned out to be an RS (2wd)

Rust under the wing mirrors.

Def check there, thats where mine had some and according to Compliancer its a common area.

As is in the boot where the spare wheel sits.

Not that its there anymore ..... its now rust free!! :)

Any particular clunks or noises I should whatch out for?

Caster rod bushes are a common failure in suspension, they're the big ones underneath the front. they use R34 ones, and aren't the cheapest bushes to replace.

make sure it comes with a front strut bar and the rear boot cover and netting, these items are a pain in the butt to source and should have been a standard fitting

Caster rod bushes are a common failure in suspension, they're the big ones underneath the front. they use R34 ones, and aren't the cheapest bushes to replace.

make sure it comes with a front strut bar and the rear boot cover and netting, these items are a pain in the butt to source and should have been a standard fitting

I might get some Caster rod bushes soonish, SK is right in that the steering is a bit light just off centre (well, a bit light for my liking, anyway).

Mine has a strut brace, the cover and a net, luckily. :angry:

I might make a new thread for this kind of stuff and get a mod to make it a Sticky at the top of this section, what do you all think?

I'll get them to keep this one open so people can come here and add new info, then I can transfer the new stuff into the Stickied one...

I know exactly what you should look for when buying a Stagea...

MINE!!! :(

16143TonkaFrontLeft.jpg

It has to go so make me a reasonable offer and its yours - seriously - thousands less than u could import one for even. Call me 0417 097 178 or email [email protected]

Edited by Brazen
I might make a new thread for this kind of stuff and get a mod to make it a Sticky at the top of this section, what do you all think?

S T I C K Y

I'm heading up the big city to have a look at one this weekend. I'm going to print this page out and take it with me.

Thanks all.

I know exactly what you should look for when buying a Stagea...

MINE!!! :)

16143TonkaFrontLeft.jpg

It has to go so make me a reasonable offer and its yours - seriously - thousands less than u could import one for even.  Call me 0417 097 178 or email [email protected]

That's such an awesome wagon mate. my gf wants me to sell mine and buy yours just because it's yellow, haha.

Cheers mate... its proving a bastard to sell though - Stagea market just non existent in WA :( Id seriously consider just about any reasonable offer at the moment...

driver - whats your budget? make me an offer! I cant work out why people looking for a Stagea arent even enquiring about a low kms Series 2 with mags for under $24,000 :P

Edited by Brazen

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...