Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was talking to a Mech yesterday on getting my car dyno tuned and he said you cant do it properly if you place the probe into the end of the exhaust, as when the cat warms up and is at operating temp it shows an incorrect ratio. He said the only way to do this is to drill a hole and weld a nut in the pipe in front of the CAT and place the probe there. Has any one done this? Also does the probe have a screw in adaptor if so what size nut would be needed?

Cheers

What a load of crap! I have never heard of this before and EVERY tune shop i have ever been too puts the probe in the exaust pipe at the rear of the car.

If you put the probe in the dump pipe in the standard oxy sensor position it can get very very hot and then you start to get weird readings....

You can get a fitting that you weld into your exhaust from just about any exhaust shop. sure the reading may be a little more accurate in high HP applications but anything within 250rkw i wouldnt worry about it...

Ive been told about this too by a few experienced dyno operators. They prefer to punch a hole before the cat and read the measures from there. I think it would give a more accurate result but still i cant complain about mine being measured from the rear.

it does make quite a difference. from my personal experience with this it seems the readings taken post cat are on average richer than those taken without a cat. i couldn't say if it's always like this, but that was my observation with my own car.

At high load and rich mixtures the cat wont be able to make any impact on the readings. So provided you allow for the slight lag of the gas reaching the rear of the exhaust for measurement it will be fine when tuning.

At light load lean mictures and around stoich mixtures, the readings at the rear of the exhaust or after cat will not be entirely correct. But then again these mixtures aren't real critical anyway.

Sometimes tuners just prefer the quicker response of the lamda sensors placed in the turbo dump or pre-cat positions so its easier to tune.

It will only cost a few bucks to get a 18x1.5 bung put into the downpipe, so just get it done if thats what the tuner prefers.

I have a wideband that actual has a simulated narrow band output as well, so i basically remove the factory sensor, screw in the wideband, and just use the narrowband output to connect to the ecu and the wideband output to the laptop for accurate readout.

Makes so very easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...