Jump to content
SAU Community

Apexi Ecv - 3" Bolt On Version

Andi
 Share

Recommended Posts

Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
Posted

Got a Apexi ECV for sale people. This is the bolt on version that goes behind your cat for simple installation, not the pipe type where you have to cut your exhaust and weld it on.

Its been used but its in perfect working order, only selling because my cars exhaust noise is pretty quiet now. So you boys out there worried about getting defected for exhaust noise can use this to quiet your exhaust down when you see the boys in blue, and leave it open while driving normally for no restrictions. :)

This is a 3" diameter version guys, the bolt on types for Nissan only come in 67mm which will be a fairly Large restriction if your exhaust and cat are 3", so if you got a 3" cat and 3" catback you can use this without any power loss. :( These are also compatible with the DECS too. :)

Comes with original box, and everything that came with it: ECV, cable, brackets, installation booklet etc. After $250 for it.

PM me call on 0403578014 if interested.

Thanks,

Andy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90980-apexi-ecv-3-bolt-on-version/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Thanks for posting, your engine bay looks tops. I'm fairly sure you posted the wrong video though, I think you were supposed to upload the one from your "private test road" where it's banging off the limiter with the gate open?
    • MBS206
      Stagea obd II low voltage

      By MBS206 · Posted

      This is something to be careful of. I did a bit of digging on the NM35, as I spend a lot of time on near brand new cars and CANBus related stuff, which uses the same "OBD2" plug for a fair chunk of making my life easy. The NM35, does NOT support OBD2. The data pin is actually on Pin3, which is a manufacturer specific pin, and requires Consult3 to connect to the NM35. Your low voltage, is either because the NM35 doesn't have 12V to the constant power pin on the J1962 (OBD2) connector, OR, it is attempting the standard comms, (CanBus, K Line, etc) and can't see any voltage on those pins. Some people have had success accessing SOME data from the vehicle on OBD2 specification, using a module that supports KPW. My assumption, like Duncan has stated, it will likely actually be JOBD, where there is some cross over with the OBD2 and JOBD standards. Note, lots of "OBD2" dongles, do NOT support KPW, which is what you need for a lot of Japanese vehicles of this era (And even up until recent years!), EG, Subaru, Suzuki, etc.    The end of this thread is probably worth a read, as some people did find a way to get a display up in the NM35 recently, looks like someone implemented all the stuff needed to make it work. (The right protocols).  
    • MBS206
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • Komdotkom
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
×
×
  • Create New...