Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

car starts, replaced busted water temp sensor and started first crank. battery a little low but all good. its idling in the drive way and consult reorts all ok and happily running. woohooooo

took for a drive, all is well, had to turn boost down as it doing its rich n retard protect crap. not a single thing wrong so all appears ok. now gotta get someone to look at my burnt powerfc and see if its ok or not

powerfc has been repaired, car starts, system runs, idles all OK.

tune is still present so all is back to normal. thank god

had a friend basically resolder the dead burnt track and all is well

so happy :blink:

jesus tity f**king christ Paul... from what i though was gonna turn into a multi $thouand repair and nightmare turned into a quick cheap fix.. you must be pretty luck.. that will learn you not to screw around with things though :P

-Mark

Edited by Ruffels

ah shit yeah i learn my lesson, but you cant learn stuff without blowing stuff up every now and then, just happy it was a cheap fix and all is good. are u gonna come to the dyno day? when did u go for your license test?

Damn your quick! ;)

Was about to offer to have a look at your ecu, then the next post i read you have already fixed it, i was like WTF!

Glad to hear your baby is back on the road. See ya on the road soon, my car may hopefully be finished by the long weekend. B)

lol dont worry ive blown my fair share of electronics up in the past and learnt good lessons from them too ;)

lol, just not $1000 electronics ;)

i probably shouldnt be saying this incase i fail, how ever my lisence is booked for friday the 4th of November... lol so 11 days away i think it is..

lol i was going to wait til after exams were over .. but i thought screw it.. i allready cop a maths methods exam on my birthday, may aswell cop a driving exam too :D

unfortunatly i dont think i'll be at the dyno day :(

but i will be at which ever event is next after that... with me driving :(

weeeeeeeeee

HAHA

once again congrats on the lucky escape .... if ever i need some luck im gonna touch you paul... lol hold on that sounded bad :s

ok well i think this novel should end.. right... about .... now

-Mark

Edited by Ruffels

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...