L20et Cam Specs

[Ghostrider]

Can anyone shed any light on the specifications of the cam in my L20ET engine.

I have all the Zed car Cam specs, but it doesn't list the L20ET engine for obvious reasons.

[stagefumer11]

Can anyone shed any light on the specifications of the cam in my L20ET engine.

I have all the Zed car Cam specs, but it doesn't list the L20ET engine for obvious reasons.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

the l20et cam is very similar in specs to a l28e non turbo cam Actaully the l28e cam is a upgrade, it has a better performance profile.

[Ghostrider]

THanks Stagefumer, but am looking for a good cam to put into my L28ET motor, as the Tighe 312 is stuffed.

Will have to buy something soon, but was considering fitting my stock L20ET cam, but will now do a rethink.

As I have said I have all the Zed Cam Specs including the L26 Nismo Cam.

[rsx84]

i think you'll find that the PN package came with slightly a better cam than the normal l20et cam, maybe thats the same as the l28na cam? have you spoken to any Z boys about l28 cam upgrades??

[Ghostrider]

I have all the Tighe specs and the 312 would have been fine except the one I had in the motor I bought was rats on #2 the lobes were different grind to rest of cam and lobe separation was to narrow at 108 dgrees.

They claim torque figures between 2400 - 5500 which would be an excellent street cam and hillclimbs, as on the gearing I have will mean it comes onto cam at about 75kph in 4th gear.

[george.bryant]

How does one measure a cam? I have a PN KHR30 and i am rebuilting the motor shortly, i could measure the specs of the cam if someone told me how?

[Ghostrider]

You need a degree wheel and I chose to send my cam to Cam Tech in Chipping Norton as they have a cam doctor machine that reads the figures.

You can get a reasonably accurate guesstimate of the duration & lift with a dial vernier, but it is not precise.

I have the specs for all Zed cams from 240 to 280ET including the Nismo cam that was fitted to the 260Z.

As has already been stated, the stock cam for the L20ET is very similar to the L28E, but the failing of that statement is there is a number of L28E engine derivatives and cams.

[discopotato03]

Edit :

Edited November 18, 2005 by discopotato03

[Ghostrider]

High lift , short duration and little overlap is where you want it to be .

You could speak to Arthur Jackson and Stu Wilkins at SWR , they're doing some classic rally Z's and used to get L6 cam blanks from the US which is better than grinding the base circle of production cams .

Good rockers and very good oils are a must do to keep L series valve trains alive with big lift profiles .

Cheers  A .

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Long way in front of you A.

But your "High lift , short duration and little overlap" is fine for non turbo applications.

256/258 degrees is an excellent duration for a quick street car, but lobe separation must be in excess of 110 dgrees and maybe as far as 115 for turbo applications.

Lift will not be higher than 0.500 inches & oversize lash pads are already in the motor.

Brand new billet cams are available through Cam Tech - Chipping Norton @ $330.00 or Tighe Cams in Brisbane @ $320.00 + freight.

As for oil, 100% synthetic is the only way to fly.

Cheers,

Dennis

[discopotato03]

Edit :

Edited November 18, 2005 by discopotato03

[Ghostrider]

You got me, I got to think about this, but A, tell me what all this has to do with the L20ET Cam Specs.

As for mineral based oil, I wouldn't use it again after the tests I did on Kev Bartletts Channel 9 Camaro some years back.

Your so far off the mark it isn't funny, I'm not using an L series for any other reason that the PNV has one and it has to be worth more in the long term than hangin an RB in the front. As it's probably the only one in NSW other than Zebs in ACT, it's going to stay looking original to the naked eye.

I simply started the post to see if I could have used the L20ET Cam in the bigger capacity motor, not debate the pros & cons of a L series engine.

More later ..............

[Ghostrider]

Would someone please explain to me, how requesting cam specs of the L20ET engine, got so out of hand, that I am being told the pro's & cons of the L series engine and why it's a piece of crap.

Now A, would you like to debate the DOHC engine, because from my lack of knowledge and rather short research, I would like to say just this ..... when telling someone how sh!t their respective choice of engine is, may I point out that the RB has it's short comings as well and if I was embarking on a project and using as a base, just any common old DR or HR30 Skyline, my choice of DOHC engine would be the 1JZ or 2JZGTE, as I think it's proving to humble the RB in just so many ways.

You speak of Stewart Wilkins, well Stewart & I speak often and he also is making some parts for me, but as you like to point out, your RB26/31 R32 will do so many good things, last time I was at Stewarts there was a blue 240Z getting the 2JZGTE treatment and I would suspect it would see off your R32 with consumate ease.

Sorry, but as you don't have the answers to what I asked, maybe we should get back on topic, but as you so kindly want to point out, that synthetic oils are not necessarily the best.

Let me tell you this ....... In the early 80's in Burt Jones's at Parramatta, Kevin Bartlett was preparing his Camaro for bathurst and we run a dyno test on 4 oils. Let me first say that by wearing a Castrol sticker on the side of the car earnt them the use of Castrol Racing R Synthetic absolutely free.

In the 350 engine Kev was running Coarse Plus 50, which still is one of Castrol's top mineral based oils. The engine/car was dynoed and both oil temp & horsepower were measured, then the sump was drained and replenished with Castrol R, then Amsoil & finally Mobil 1 and the brief results were a steady increase in HP and a slight decrease in oil temp through all tests and found Mobil 1 the best performer at the time, and guess what, Kev went to Bathurst that year with a castrol sticker on the car and lots of mobil 1 in the engine.

That was enough for me and also for it's availability I will be using Mobil 1 in my L seies. I have Mobiltemp 220 in the bearings and Mobil Synthetic 80W90 in the LSD & gearbox.

You appear to have missed the point of topic entirely, I am not suggesting the L series is any better or worse than the RB, but in my case, I have a very rare vehicle in Australia and not a just so common as dirt R32 or nearly as DR or HR30 and I thought it best to keep the car looking as stock, or appearing to be as stock as it was made, wityh just a few refinements to help it handle, stop and generally perform a bit better.

The cam being discussed has an advertised duration of 258/260 degrees, valve lift of .314 inches, cam lift of .472 inches, lobe separation of 112 degrees and an operating rev range of 2500 - 6500.

AND not all 300+ degree cams are full race, as I had a Hillman Hunter once and inside the 1725 + 0.030 engine was a 54/86 cam, that's 320 degrees and it idled as smooth as silk, not the slightest lope or roughness at idle and the whole package produced an awesome 165bhp at the flywheel. IF you can find them, you will find Andrew Cowan's Hunter GT London to Sydney winner had very similar specs.

Anyway, how is my 300rwhp any less efficient than yours, it's still 300HP no matter how you look at it and sure, if it was a full on racer and not a PNV I would have gone ahead with the RB conversion I had in progress, but it's not, it's a signature series PNV, which is rare in itself and from what I can find out, the only one in OZ like it.

Cheers, D

[discopotato03]

Edit :

Edited November 18, 2005 by discopotato03

[george.bryant]

WTF!?

[Ghostrider]

WTF!?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Don't worry about it George, A & I were having a tiff???

[Factory 5]

I think the L sereies is really good!

and has anyone found these cam specs yet???

i have one sitting on my workbench as we speak......