Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, not a big deal but something i still would like to fix. just installed a new dvd player and moniter, when its all switched off you can hear the alternator whine through the headunit i think, but when switched on even with no volume it goes away. just wondering if you guys have any ideas, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92293-funny-one/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

i know if you have the alternator whine coming through your amp you run the rca lead and the power lead down different sides of the car... but dont know how u could apply this to your problem... a little food for thought

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92293-funny-one/#findComment-1683647
Share on other sites

thanks for your response, it does seem like some sort of interfearence problem. havent rechecked anything yet but will do soon after it goes back on the dyno. it isnt a daily driver and i only play with it when i have nothing to do so im not in a big rush. thanks.

Russell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92293-funny-one/#findComment-1684579
Share on other sites

get a new balist resistor for the back of you alternator its a little cylinder attached to it. Next bad earth somewhere (dirty) most likley your remote lead from head unit to amp. Next power cables to clost to speaker or rca leads. They pick up signals from power cables and play in the speakers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92293-funny-one/#findComment-1694407
Share on other sites

if you havent had any problem's with whining in this car before and theres no-interferance anywhere from an outside source, its most likly a grounding problem as mentioned ealier, it could also be a power leak somewhere into either the ground loop or the 12+ loop, if re-grounding everything up mabye try running just one long wire from the gound of the dvd unit straight to the earth in the battery just temporaraly if the whine goes away its a problem with your ground loop, so try gorunding in a different spot or use a different route, if it still occurs it could be a 12+ problem which is more difficult to fix, if possible try a different power source, if all fail's find somone who has an ossiliscope thingy which meausers your power/ earth frequency's and try and source where the interfeerance is comming from, other than that mabye it is an alternator causeed problem, which i doubt if the sound does go away, another possibility is you may have your remote wire plugged (or any of the dvd wires) into the wrong spot and so it could cause some sort of feedback when the unit is off but then when it is turned this wire could react different with constant current running down it, i know i had this problem one time when i grouned a mates head unit up to what seemed to be an earth wire n turned out to be an accessory wire which stayed earth untill activated, if all fails try temporarly installing the dvd unit to an external sources (another car, or threw a computer -- or some sort of 12 power sorce) and make sure the gear isnt the problem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92293-funny-one/#findComment-1698808
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...