Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wheels SOLD. RE01 tyres still for sale.

Item:R34 GT-R standard 18x9 wheels and tyres with a spare set of tyres

Location:Sydney

Item Condition:Good condition, gutter marks on two wheels easily fixed

Reason for Selling:I have new wheels, want cash for turbo upgrade

Price and Payment Conditions:$2500 or $3000 with extra tyres

Extra Info:

These wheels are the standard Nissan forged lightweight 18x9 inch wheels from my R34 GTR. These are ideal for a R32 or R33 GTR and fit both. They are lightweight

and strong and look great.

These wheels will physically fit an R33 GTS-t you may get some rubbing on full lock but i cant say for sure. They do not overhang.

They come fitted with Nankang tyres with 80% tread. The tyres are standard size of 245/40R18 all round. The tyres grip fine on a GTR and i never had a problem with them. I did maybe 3000km on them.

I also have a set of almost new 4 x Bridgestone RE01 tyres in 245/40R18 which i can supply for an extra $500. These still have the rubber nipples on them but have done about 50 - 100kms max. These are the standard R34-GTR tyre size.

Basically this is wheels and tyres for your car to last a very long time and you will be very happy with the look.

I will consider selling the RE01 tyres seperately for $800.

Contact Details:Email [email protected]

Would consider part trade for parts such as:

- Tomei/SARD/HKS twin feed fuel rai and or regulator etc for RB26

- PowerFC hand controller for GTR

- Trust or similar radiator (PWR or other local brand ok too)

or many other things for RB26/R34 GTR so PM me and lets make a deal.

how much just for the rims no tyres on them?

You can have the rims for $2200 with no tyres. I wont go lower because itd cost me money to take the tyres off.

dont spose you'd be interested on a part trade for some perfect condition 17's.  17x9 off a 32 GTR....if not no dramas...

Not really sorry. Sell your 17's and buy these :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...