Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just thought id ask what ppl have done about the engine temps rising when yourve put on a front mount cooler, as mines running alot hotter i need to do something about it, i was thinking first ill flush out the radiator,new coolant and colder thermostat to see if thatll work, also does any1 have a part no for the rb20det thermostat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9278-engine-temps/
Share on other sites

Same prob here, my car now overheats after about 4 laps on the track, something that even on hot days never use to happen. I was going to cut a larger opening in the OE bar, then make some aluminium or fibreglass shrouding to direct ariflow thru the IC and radiator.

If this doesnt help i suppose i will try the thermostat ($$$ and where do i get one from) as well an ARE aluminium radiator just to be sure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9278-engine-temps/#findComment-139108
Share on other sites

i fitted a thermostat from a VL to my 32 and run twin thermofans. With the stock radiator and a very big (600x300x73) fomt mount the temp stays at 80deg, in the last couple of days when it was 40+deg the temp would go up to 90 deg. This is with a new radiator and good cooling parts, so a alloy 32mm radiator is probably the way to go, but for $650+ try the other stuff first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9278-engine-temps/#findComment-139271
Share on other sites

I noticed after I put the FMIC in that the water and oil temps are up by about 10 degrees or so.

I'm putting in a 16 inch davies craig (or is that craig davies??? :spank: ) fan in next weekend. I don't have to, but I noticed that the clutch fan is squeaking and has a slight wobble to it !!! So I'd hate to think what it is like at 6000rpm :)

If your worried about temps, go the thermostat, then thermo fans, then oil cooler or 32mm radiator and see how you go.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9278-engine-temps/#findComment-139301
Share on other sites

One thing I used to do in my old car cause it used to always overheat in summer, was to drill a 1/8th inch hole in the side of the thermostat so it would always bleed a bit of water through slowly.

Not sure if it was a good idea, but it worked great.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9278-engine-temps/#findComment-139334
Share on other sites

Guest nismogtsx

In my old skyline it heated to much so i removed the thermo stat alltogether... It took the car ages to warm up but then it always stayed at 1/4 temp... basiclly just off cold..... It olny ever reached over the 1/3 area when doing a big mountain climb in summer is 2nd gear all the way at 3000+rpm all the way...

Not a good idea tho... But i need to in this model due to a very strange setup of FMIC/Radiator blah blah blah

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9278-engine-temps/#findComment-139358
Share on other sites

Originally posted by lowlux

yeah jay a guy at work told me to do that,he did that in his race car and it worked well, oh well ill try the colderthermostat first,if that doesent work ill drill

LOL cool, I'm glad I'm not the only dodgy person around :P

I saw a Nismo 86 degree thermostat somewhere, but they wanted about $120 or something like that for it. !!!

But then again, it did have the nismo name !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9278-engine-temps/#findComment-140135
Share on other sites

Hmmm...44deg or whatever it was in melb the other day and i was driving around a bit - temp didn't.even move past the normal level. Was quite impressed!

The standard ECU should regulate it all pretty well assuming everything else is working.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9278-engine-temps/#findComment-140256
Share on other sites

I've got a pretty big front mount, oil cooler, 1 fan etc and aftermarket ecu etc and the temp sits at 75-78 depending on the outside air temp. On sunday's cruise where it was VERY stop start and 40 farkin degrees, the temp crept up to 81 but that's as high as it's gone AFAIK.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9278-engine-temps/#findComment-140645
Share on other sites

Originally posted by 2rismo

I've got a pretty big front mount, oil cooler, 1 fan etc and aftermarket ecu etc and the temp sits at 75-78 depending on the outside air temp.  On sunday's cruise where it was VERY stop start and 40 farkin degrees, the temp crept up to 81 but that's as high as it's gone AFAIK.

Is that oil temp or water temp???

My oil temp was sitting on about 90 degrees while on the highway (110km/h) and sat on around 75-80 when putting around.

The oil coolers must work pretty good (Jay put's one on his shopping/wish list!!).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9278-engine-temps/#findComment-140660
Share on other sites

I've got a 90mm I/C ,a 32mm PWR radiator and a big ass oil cooler. On hot days water temps reach 90-94 degrees. Normal days water temps are about 80 degrees. Don't know about winter yet.

Oil temps have never passed 90 degrees on the road. At the race track however, they've reached 120 degrees on 30+ days. I won't be happy until the water temp guage sits in the middle on 30 degrees+ track days.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9278-engine-temps/#findComment-144970
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...