Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a 96 s1 r33 the car is standard but immaculate has sunroof, i also have a complete s2 front ent to put on if someones interested. i am asking around 16k i also have a full veilside kit for it i payed 3k 4 it i would let it go for 1000...sorry the pics arnt that good i will get more if someone is interestedpost-7531-1130843925.jpgpost-7531-1130844025.jpg also it has 60000km hasnt been registered here in aus ,,,

Edited by campbell
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93249-r33-s1-with-complete-s2-front-96-mod/
Share on other sites

Wait, so is this a series 1 or series 2? Looks like it's a series 1 to me which means it's not 96?

If you bothered to read his post, it says it's a series 1, but he has a series 2 front end to put on it.

If you bothered to read his post, it says it's a series 1, but he has a series 2 front end to put on it.

no. if you bothered, you'd see it clearly says 1996 S1 R33 for sale

no. if you bothered, you'd see it clearly says 1996 S1 R33 for sale

Exactly what i thought. 1996 SERIES 1? Never knew Nissan came out with series 1 in 1996, unless i'm absolutely wrong. The reason being, i have just imported a car, it is built 02/96 and it is a series 2 with all the series 2 front and rear spoiler.

AND I did BOTHER to read the post clearly, in fact, 3 times.

Edited by BL01

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...