Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last night i was commin home when i came around a corner n the second i went to accelerate, my car (R33GTS-T) lost all power n rolled to a stop. the lights and radio all still work.

When i tried to crank the car back over the thing just sounds like a spinning noise and it wont start

Its not fuel because i can hear it. im lost, my baby wont start...

any help would be appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93275-skyline-wont-start/
Share on other sites

Put your hand over the air intake and have a buddy turn the engine over. If you get a push - pull air flow (air sucked in, then pushed back out) then I've got some bad news for you. . . . Timing Belt.

My heart sinks for you at just the thought, but it's the easiest thing to check for.

Edited by RB240Dav

if its the timing belt, i dont care, but if its bent the valves, ill die

ive got an idea that it could be the crank angle sensor..

also i've been told from a few ppl its could be coil packs (?) to do with my remote start n alarm etc that is lose n its activated my engine disengage n thats why it wont start ...does that sound right?

the belt had only 51,000 ks on it, thats whats pissed me off the most.

The guy who has to rebuild it says, maybe coz its the original belt and the the car is 10yrs old (1996 model) it happend with age.

this aint my day

Timing belts should be changed every 100 k k's or 5 years wichever comes first , thats what most car makers recomend . They will usualy last a lot longer but you cant take the risk. In wrx's they should be changed every 4 years and some diesel landcruisers every 150k k's or 7.5 years but they have a short and thick belt .

10 years out of a belt you are asking for trouble , just look at your driving belts ( air cond, alt+ power steer ) if they are 10 years old you will see tiny cracks on them .

nah the importer confirmed my timing belt snapped. so im gettin a rebuild, i've already organised it n the car has been towed upto dandenong for it (over an hour from my place)

the car is under warranty still, so im only outta pocket for the tow truck there and back

Lucky mate. Very lucky about the warranty.

The first thing anyone who imports a car should do is change the timing belt. As we all know, most cars are wound back so even though your car might say 50,000km for all you know it could have done 150,000km and be well due for a timing belt change.

It's really not worth the risk.

well when my car came into australia 2 months ago they changed all filters and everthing else, but the timing belt was never mentioned.

bt3tt, mate ur so right, lucky the warranty covers it all. Warning to anyone who gets an import, change the timing belt, because you dont know how many k's the cars done. Also i was told that it also is cause because the car has the factory timing belt and being 9yrs old it gave way

That just sucks, but it's a good reminder for blokes like me who have just got a car recently imported car. I wonder how much the importer will be up for....

What places will sell a timing belt for RB20? Easy to check condition of belt? Take cover off?

I'd be relieved to a degree that it happened when under warranty

Edited by GTAHH

A timing belt stretches out over time through wear and could break at the worst possible moment, like what happened to Mr_crust. As it stretches, the engine slowly goes out of time resulting in decreased engine performance, lower petrol milage etc.

If the timing belt breaks, the camshaft will stop turning in time with the engine while the crankshaft continues to turn for a short time until the engine dies.

In that short period of time major engine damage could occur such as, broken valve guides, bent valves or a broken camshaft = bad.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
    • Yeah the rule of thumb with an LS is 7psi per 1000rpm. That is decidedly not enough at 6800rpm. I mainly looked for the scenarios where knock started to be picked up and it was later in the session when things were hotter, and oil was thinner, and the pressure was lower than it should be. (i.e very horrible). I am hoping with thicker oil (I was running Penrite ten tenths 10-40, the manual specifies 10-30) that does not leak that it's much improved at that time!!! I am using Project Mu Club Racer CR pads. I'm also using the Project Mu 335C fluid. The symptoms imply that it was fluid that boiled, but no bubbles seemed pretty weird to me when I bled it today. I want to try Castrol SRF as it has a much higher wet temp but, well, I have new Project Mu fluid lol... so I should at least use that. The pedal on track was really noticable. It went from basically normal feeling to instantly near-floor. The car did pull up as before, it was just very much nearly at the floor before the brakes engaged. At that point I pretty much decided the day was very done, it did *kinda* come back during that very slow cooldown lap into the pits. Felt perfectly fine driving home.
    • f**king around with the bro
×
×
  • Create New...