Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys sorry bout the late reply, been busy all day, didnt expect such a quick response.

For the items that i haven't priced i will update tmz, its my brothers car so i have to confo with him. I will remove the parts, (unless there a mission due to the crash) and am happy to ship but it is hard to say on prices as i cant find a good postage method (the ones ive found have no shipping calculator). I will try to post a list of prices on most of the parts tmz to save all this hassle.

1. The cradle pin - ill have a look tomoz n see what i can do, i have a guy interested in the whole diff setup etc.

2. tailshaft is gone

3.Its a manual GTS-t mspec, sorry bout the limited info in the original post.

4. The front strut brace is preety much fine except the passenger mounting plate is bent (but easily unbent)

5.The steering wheel is available but ive had 3 people keen so offers$$

6. The braking system, do u mean all disks, calipers, booster master cyclinder etc. $200

7.Starter motor $80

8.Driverside door trim is available

9.Gearbox is gone

10. How much were you willing to pay for the whole thing??

11. Exhaust is 3in, mandrell bent, 1 cat, 1 4inch cannon at rear. offer$$

12.If the reverse light is seperate from the tail lights (unclips) then its avaiable, if not im selling the tail light tmz

13.rims are 16in (had alot of people ask me if they GTR, i just thawt they were mspec) someone let me knoe if they kow the specs for the GTR wheels.

14.Handbreak setup, you after the handbrake itself and the cables ect (assume u dont need the caliper) and the clutch master cyclinder. make me an offer

Cheers

Ryan

12.If the reverse light is seperate from the tail lights (unclips) then its avaiable, if not im selling the tail light tmz

Cheers

Ryan

The reverse light is the little white ones beside the number plate. Nothing to do with the rear light assembly. It simply unscrews of the bumper.

like i said, I want to come check it out this weekend and see what is available as I am after a few small parts..

PM your mobile number to organise a time.

Hey prices are as follows. All pices are negotiable. Ill post anything under 20kg through australia post, anything over 20kg would be best if you organised a courier.

Im not keen on takin out the air vents, would reather sell whole dash shell to avoid breaking the vents

The gearbox, tailshaft, rear drivers side tail light are already gone.

Front strut bace $50

92 Steering Wheel $50

Brakes (all disks and calipers) $500

Starter $80

Drivers Door trim $50

Whole car $4500 (open to offers)

Exhaust (3inch) $600

Reverse light $10

Rims (16in with good tred, gunmetal grey) $400

Diff $400-500

Visors (both) $100

Breakbooster and master cylinder $100

Fllormats (drivers one torn near clutch) $200

Dash shell $150

Rear wing $50

Hand break boot $10

Door rubbers (both) $30

Speedo cable $50

Cluth (heavy duty PBR, 3 months old) $110

Motor $2000

Hope this helps

Latrz guys

am after the AC compreser and belt ?allso want the drivers side window if not tinted and no scratches? do you have and what price ? Please

I need the bracket that holds on the receiver/dryer for the ac unit (pic of dryer below)

It holds this cylinder in place

post-23559-1131753361.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...