Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest MFX_R33

Looks like I will be running my car again next wednesday at Eastern Creek (weather permitting) with the stockie 16"s this time. I will run them at about 15psi with no subs, spare etc in the boot this time. I am interested in seeing if it will make much of a difference.

Jeff.

Good stuff Jeff, i'll be there as always (as a spectator).

Give the horn a toot as you drive past :uh-huh:

Edit: You should team up with Buster (Brett) he had his first run last week and did a 13.3 i believe.

Originally posted by MFX_R33

Looks like I will be running my car again next wednesday at Eastern Creek (weather permitting) with the stockie 16"s this time. I will run them at about 15psi with no subs, spare etc in the boot this time. I am interested in seeing if it will make much of a difference.

Jeff.

Jeff,

Try 19/20psi if the tyres are intended for 'street'. At 15psi you may find that the tyre gets damaged. This will occur more on wide tyres like 225's or larger on stock rims. Hopefully you have at least 225's because I can't reccomend 205's at all.

I'd say you just need more practice launching. I have had lots of practice over the years (even though I've only gone to the drags wth the line' twice).

205's will handicap you quite alot, if I had your 255's I be in the 1.9 second 60ft. stick with them and practice I reckon, or get some 225's at least with a tallish profile.

Guest MFX_R33

I went to Eastern Creek again last night. I decided to keep on the 18"s and lower the tyre pressure to 20psi. It hooked up heaps better this time and a pulled a 13.102 @ 108.46 mph with a 2.114 60ft :) :) :) .

I was stoked, as I was only hoping for about a 13.4. Looks like the 18"s were the better option.

Jeff.

Originally posted by MFX_R33

I went to Eastern Creek again last night. I decided to keep on the 18"s and lower the tyre pressure to 20psi. It hooked up heaps better this time and a pulled a 13.102 @ 108.46 mph with a 2.114 60ft :) :) :) .

I was stoked, as I was only hoping for about a 13.4. Looks like the 18"s were the better option.

Jeff.

Congratulation Jeff. That's a nice time and a good TS.

You never know, a little bit more practice and you might see a 12 sec pass :uh-huh: :uh-huh: :uh-huh:

J

Thats a great time Jeff.

I was there last night (as a spectator) to watch Brett (Buster) and Eric (xrsist) race. I seen your run (couldn't hear the time coz the next car was busy ripping a burnout) but it seemed like a steady smooth run. After that I walked over to behind the pits and seen your car (now i know where I have seen it before - on here), checked out the rims... couldn't see the driver anywhere so kept walking.

Buster and xrsist ended up missing out on there 2nd run coz some fuel tried to rip a burnout in a car that shouldnt even be pushed let alone started and dropped oil all over the place.

Next time I'll yell out to u as u hit drop the clutch :)

Guest MFX_R33

You probably saw my second run. I did a 13.6 I believe. I don't know cause the timing bimbo's screwed up again and the machine muched my slip. My second run I got a really crap launch and spun all the way through 1st and 2nd.

After the second run I didn't think I had time for another run so I went to watch for a bit. Good thing I did with that massive oil down.

I think there is definitly room for a 12 second pass there but I think better tyres are in order, before i can pull that off.

Jeff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...