Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Since everybody goes for the turbo engine swap, i thought i would do something different and supercharge my RB20de, the only thing is i dont know much about supercharging, things like will i need an intercooler? or a bov? or a waste gate? i havnt got the slightest idea. if any body can enlighting me on this topic i would very much appreciate it. + if anybody has any spare dash parts for the R32, give us a buzz, you might have what im looking for

Edited by Youngy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94592-supercharging-rb20/
Share on other sites

Adding a supercharger u can put an intercooler on it, and you can put a bov on it, except it not quite the same, its more so a bypass valve, does similar work but different name and minimal noise. Perhaps capa performance could help you with sizes of supercharger for you RB, you may need to look at your compression ratios to run it better, they should give you a good understanding and a rough power figure

it could certainly be done, but there is a lot to think about before you start. i'd use an Eaton M90 blower, don't worry about dropping the compression. fit large duration camshafts to get the head breathing better and drop your boost levels. then there's the hard parts: mounting and driving the blower. it's all custom work, and you either do it yourself or get a workshop to do it ($$$) properly.

use a cooler, it can't hurt.

use a bypass valve, not a BOV. if you're serious about doing it i can explain what this is to you, but you don't sound very serious about it at the moment. it's a much bigger job than you think.

do a search on some of the thread me and a couple of other guys did on supercharging RB's. We did came up with some good ideas, but in the end decided its cheaper, and easier to swap in a turbo engine. Especially on an RB20.

We figured it'd be easiest to use a supercharger off a Toyota 1G-GZE as its perfectly suited to the layout of an RB engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
×
×
  • Create New...