Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

You may have seen my post on boostcruising.com, but im planning on importing a 96 R33 gtst mspec 2 in about 3 months from now and i just wanted to know if there is anything i need to worry about or if u guys have any good advice for me...i have done alot of research, but some input would be great :(

Has anyone got any advice or do's and dont's ???

thanks :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94840-importing/
Share on other sites

Only advice I will give is that if it's your first time importing, don't do it completely on your own. Go through a company like J-Spec or Prestige Motorsport as they can talk you through the entire process, and generally make it a less stressful experience. You'll probably end up saving time and money in the process too. From what I've heard, Prestige have access to more cars (about 60,000 per week vs about 40,000 per week I think the stats were but could be mistaken), but the SAU crowd have generally been more satisfied with J-Specs service than Prestige's service. However, I went through Prestige and found their service to be outstanding! (So J-Specs must be incredible! :()

I wish you good luck for whatever path you take.

Edited by Big Rizza
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94840-importing/#findComment-1712974
Share on other sites

compliance will cost you $3k max id say....try squeeze a couple of hundred out of whoever you go with....and thats $3k + tyres, and probably more if the car is modified and they have to take it back to stock ....

what funky said, its coming RORO...and its Type M ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94840-importing/#findComment-1714637
Share on other sites

i will give you a hint get your car put in a container it costs about 400 bucks more but make sure you tell them you dont want it opened till you get their i did it with mine and nothing went missing its a piece of mind if its got gadgets on it also with roll on and off i no they flog your car and nick what they want so spend the extra....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94840-importing/#findComment-1733024
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

hey guys,

i was just wondering what they do with the mods after they take them off??

do u get 2 keep them or do they customs pplz or watever?

and i was also wondering if u were allowed to get there car brought back to ur house so u could take the mods off 2 keep them b4 it goes thru compliance n that??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94840-importing/#findComment-1806825
Share on other sites

yep, you can get it delivered to your door and leave it there forever if thats what u wanted to do....just needs compliance to be registered...

you get to take off all ur mods (unless the wharfies helped themselves to some free parts :D) or you can get the compliance workshop to do it for you, and they'll probably charge u a small fee for the labour of taking them off/putting back on, and for using their stock parts...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94840-importing/#findComment-1806888
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...