Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I start the ball rolling.......

Supra TT (JDM spec) - ~ high 13's to flat 14's

R32 GT-R - low 13's, sneak a high 12

R33 GTS25t - mid/low 14's

*Note* - All figures rough ball park. I'm sure there'll be plenty of posts to come with......."What! That's B/S I've seen my mates brothers sisters uncle do a 10.89 on his gtech dead stock!"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9507-stats/#findComment-143890
Share on other sites

Think about it...

2 sec's is a long time especially when your maxing 4th gear..... If your in your Vtec and are racing a gts-t that is 2 sec's in front of you, it will look like they are a real long way away...

Cheers

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9507-stats/#findComment-145135
Share on other sites

Type R integra is bloody quick. Only a yank is dumb enough to drag race em, but they are super quick around a track.

Eg, in bathurst hillclimb last year, I was doing .31 in the gts-t, a stock integra was doing .33s

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9507-stats/#findComment-145246
Share on other sites

Losing a drag race by 2 seconds is a HUGE gap! That's like being lapped a few times in a circuit race.

.1 of a second is say ~1 car length over 400m. Note - this is a very rough guide. So don't bloody start all you nit pickers who like to apply the laws of every known theory! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9507-stats/#findComment-151393
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...