Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone got a decnt sun shield reflector screen thingy that you put in your car to keep the sun off the dash ? I want one that will fit all the way down between the dash and the windscreen and then actually be held in place by the sun visors. All the ones I've seen in the shops are too small.

If anyone knows where to get one & how much could you let me know please ?

Cheers :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95108-skyline-sun-screen-shield/
Share on other sites

ive got 3 of them at home all the same brand i cant remember what brand, but i bought them from kmart, they come in different colours are were approx 8 bucks each as far as i remember!

they fold up and have elastic to keep them folded.

I got the largest sized plain visor last weekend from supercheap.

think it's 170x150 or similar, it's a little too big on the sides but it covers the entire dash, no gaps. Cost like $10, is reflective on one side and blue on the other. Good thing is it's made from hard bubble wrap stuff, makes it a pain to store but it doesn't fall down or bend in the middle and expose bit of the interior.

It's meant to go blue side out but I found it works better silver side out.

I bought a large from Repco back in March. It's too long but it's the right depth so i'm happy with it. I don't use them but it has the suction cups to hold it to the windscreen, and elastic to keep it folded up nicely when not in use.

It was pretty cheap - not more than $15 that's for sure!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...