Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, i just received my new power fc in the mail from Nengun.com $1003.18 delivered.

I already have profec boost control tho not hooked up yet, was waitin 4 power fc to tune them together.

i cant afford to replace the turbos at the mo and need them to last for awhile. So how much boost should i be running.

the car will be jumping on the dyno in the next couple of weeks and wanted to know whether it would be safe to run a bar.

i did a search looking for how much boost is safe to run on Standard 33GTR turbos. (i have 32gtr with 33gtr engine/turbos).

found beerbarons stats, running a bar. Is that safe????

i need them to last but want the most power i can get safely...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95243-safe-boost-level-on-gtr/
Share on other sites

yeah, 1 bar is certainly as high as i would go on stock turbos, but that's not to say they will be bullet proof at 1 bar. 1 bar is generally just the accepted compromise between turbo longevity and increased performance. This is the mark for a couple of reasons. for starters the power gains start to taper off once increasing boost (on stock turbos) past 1.2 bar, so you are effectively then sacrificing reliability for not much more power. at 1 bar though you will have a nice power increse over stock, inlet temps will still be reasonable, shaft speed is still at the upper end of being reasonable and reliability should be fairly good. having said that, if your turbos have been pushed hard before, or had extreme heat cycled through them they may fail at any time regardless of boost, 1 bar, .8 bar whatever. But for good condition turbos 1 bar should be fine for quite some time.

  • 2 weeks later...

a bit off topic here but oh well, i read in the pfc manual on this site in diy, that it comes with a boost controller.

im planning on getting a pfc soon and if i can do everything with the hand controller, without a boost controller then that would be good.

anyone know?

i dont really understand your question? the powerfc does not come with the boost contorl kit its a seperate option for an extra $300 ish. but it does plug into the powerfc and factory harness.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...