Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think its just the rev limiter cause it just sorta doesn't really go or change gear for a little while after it happens and it doesn't always happen just sometimes. My speed sensor on my gearbox is a bit dodgey i think so may be a bit of a problem with that. Ill make sure its rev limiters tnite when i drive it again

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mine was just a single 1 piece dump/front pipe with a 3 inch catco cat and 80mm cat back with 2 mufflers.

The wastegate couldn't be leaking after getting a knock in the post could it?

good point, i should pay more attention.

When you run less boost does it come on boost earlier? I'm just thinking about the stock rubber intake pipe sucking closed. Also, what sort of filter are you running?

i dono have not tried it will give it a shot later,although i don't want to loose the boost setting atm as can be a bit of amission to get it set back right. i would not have though it would be sucking closed. its a Apexi pod filter also i have a right angle bend for the pod so it sits a bit further away from the engine as is closer to the outside air intake but i dont think this would matter either

thats the filter i have http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=2604

I think it is that

4 of the best Tuners in perth told me it was

A) plug gaps

B) rev limeter

C) fuel cut

I used to have a blead valve and could not adjust boost properly but now i can adjust ot .3 of a psi

So C) was the correct 1 but only after they checked my gaps and tryed to run more boost looking for hp

i tune it my self with the help of turbo smart

if we have a cruz i will show you wat i mean

changed my whole out look on moding my auto

james

The pod shouldn't cause problems. They are one of the best flowing on the market. The pipes do suck in if they are a bit old and you are running a bit of boost, though it would have been spotted on the dyno i'd expect

Was not boost controler more the boost it self

i found the eboost2 very easy to work very precice

soo i could fine tune the controler and no dyno needed 4 that

just turn off the car start it and change boost settings from the cabin

and it a very acuate boost gauge as well some thing i through was a waste of time

how wrong i was

i have tuned mine so well i flat stick it and no more pops and more power cause engine is firing and ecu can handle it

best $915 i spent

james

yeah depends a bit on the dyno though as well some read pritty high. I have never heard of hyperdrive reading high seems they are quiet acurate. Do you have a manaul and rb25 though?

I am going to Mayhems thursday he is gona have a bit of a look he doesn't seem to think its right either

I have power and hold button on the auto umnm i think the computer learns

Edited by AntonRx7

yeah cause it takes a bit of time for it to change gears sometimes so would make it a bit slower. Boost seems to fluctuate up and down at the end of the rev range a bit as well as i have recorded it on my defi gauge dono if that is just from bouncing of the limiter. I will see if it does it tnite as i am not 100% sure if its is the limit. Either way still has got nothin to do with why its low on hp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...