Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 183
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

OK so a GCG hi-flow would be good for up to about 250rwkw... after a decent tune. I'm assuming that the SAFCII won't be good enough for tuning purposes?

So for all supporting mods:

1 x hi flo turbo or similiar

1 x new fuel pump

1 x adjustable fule reg

1 x new management system???

Would you guys reccomend getting new injectors or would the R34 stock injectors be good for 250rwkw?

Stan

Why wouldnt a SAFC be up to the job? For the supporting mods Im looking at using the SITC / SAFC combo, with stnd injectors, bosch pump and nismo regulator..... wanting 200awkw from non-neo Rb25.

......... why I can confidently say that Shoot Out mode doesn't ALWAYS give higher power readings. Well, not on our dyno anyway

lol I found that funny! man, what Id give to have a dyno in MY garage (at home, not work). :lol:

Brendan

Basically because SAFC will only do fuel and air control? There is no timing control option in that... hence why I said it's probably not the best option.

I'm running 200rwkw at the moment, just gathering information for the big jump :P Hopeful that I can get it all done with $5k

Thats right, so grab a Apexi SITC (super ignition timing converter), fairly rare now but I found a brand new one for $220US on ebay. Being installed right....about....NOW!

:P

Brendan

well i just got off the phone with my tuner and my car is going in on friday to get the emanage ultimate fitted. All this talk of power has made me antsy. I dont think the ultimate needs the ignition signal adapter like the older version does, but i iwll soon find out. As for the zener diodes i think that i will put them in anyways, just waitning for and email from 666DAN. NO one else has a wiring diagram for the inclusion of zenners in the ingintion wiring do they?

Am looking into it right about now :P

Anyone else know if this thing will work?

Satan,

See Stagea section, Gary's thread (SK) Apexi Super Ignition Timing Computer, he reckons its all good, and thats good enough for me by far.

Mine is going on the Stagea right now (yesterday / today), with high pressure fuel lines, nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator, bosch 040 fuel pump, and a z32 afm.

Getting it all ready for the turbo upgrade, hopefully I dont need larger injectors........

worth a look maybe, start on ebay. :lol:

Brendan

powerplay quoted me $1600 for rom tuning. that is a fkn joke. considering it needs to be done everytime you do more mods. Emanage ultimate with all harness(even car specific harness) and greddy e01 ebc cost me $1600. If rom tuning was cheap it would be a good option, but they want ridiculous amounts to do it.

Isn't there a Daughterboard you can buy through a group buy here that allows you to modify the stock rom form your laptop......

Was quite cheap too I beleive.

Dr Drift can tune them.

I was wondering how long it wopould take for SK to see this.

Any further thoughts on my 250rwkw ceiling SK?

14psi, very conservative timing......

Id say Race Paces dyno is very very generous. 250rwkw at 14psi when its not even in the turbos effeceint range sounds a little too high. Considering you can pump another 5psi and easily get another 20-30rwkw. i went from 17-20psi and i picked up 13rwkw and at least 30rwkw in the middle with a 2535. Silva33 got 244rwkw on 14psi with a 2535 on the same dyno. Put another 5psi in that we are looking at 270rwkw, i just cant see that from a 2535. Considering i only am getting 231rwkw at 19psi from a 2535 from a dyno dynamics dyno in shootout mode. It may read low but thats all i got. Tuning for max power isnt too hard, get the A/F ratios in the high 11's and some good timing in her. Watch the knock, if its too high bring out some timing, its not too hard. Unless you are running no timing, your still going to produce some good numbers. Good tuning is in the light/middle throttle which takes alot of time and effort.

Unfortunately those dyno sheets dont show the setup of how the dyno was run. Dynos can quite easily be enhanced.

Nah, RacePace is one of the best in the country.

He doesn't play with the numbers because most of the people going there aren't worried about numbers. Just getting the best from their cars.

Ash's R31/RB25DET ran 20rwkw higher in Shootout mode on the same dyno, and it's known to be conservative.

I'm not even into the efficient range of the GCG.  14psi is quote low.

but dont forget GCG probably are rating @ a stock head style setup

non cams, and are they counting the fact itrs a NEO in thier info for you?

I had a little run with Silvas 244Rwkw (14psi) with my old 2530 setup and basically it wasnt as close as what it should have been

driver.

youve been racing yours @ the strip for a while now remember

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...