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So ive decided i need one, but not sure which path to take.

New japanese kit sell for a litttle over $1000, this includes braided lines, thermostat, relief valve, and remote filler.

Locally courced parts to make a kit can be bought for about $600. This includes remote filler, braided lines. The B&M Kits have an optional thermostat, whilst Earls type dont.

So question is given Sydneys 5-35 deg weather is a thermostat really needed? I like the idea of running a relief valve but would like to hear from people simply running a cooler with a sandwich plate.

How about 2nd hand Jap type, im a little hesitant as due to their age it may be possible that the thermostat or relief valve could be stuffed anyway.

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Hi Roy, we run a remote oil filter and oil cooler (mounted behind the RHS duct). No thermostat, no problems. I would not worry about an oil cooler for a street car or a drag car. But any Skyline turbo that sees the circuit a bit should really have one.

Hope that helps.

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Hi sidewaymambo, it's even better than that, we have used the same oil cooler and adaptor on RB30, RB20, RB25 and RB26 engines. Basically as long as they use the same oil filter, the adaptor will fit.

Hope that helps

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If my engine light is coming on when on the track (only since getting new IC) then id hate to know what temp my oils is reaching.

No thermostat, no problems. I would not worry about an oil cooler for a street car or a drag car.

Sydneykid, you finally found your way onto SAU.

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OK, so now where do i put it. I like the idea of putting it in front of the drivers side duct, but with my IC piping i would have to place it way back about 10" from the actual opening. plus i would have to vent the inner guard so i can get airflow thru.

What about between the IC and radiator, it will just fit there, is this going to increase water temps even more as my car is already marginal.

Maybe ill take back the 19 row and get the slightly smaller 16 row.

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Roy

The cooler would be much more efficient in the drivers side vent, even 10" back. This is the same position as ours and ours is ducted with aluminium.

Anything which takes temperature out of the oil will also take some temperature out of the water.

Stick with the 19 row - always stay with the biggest

Hope that helps

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We don't run an inner plastic guard, but if you want to then cut a hole in the plastic inner guard the same size as the oil cooler and run the ducting from the back of the oil cooler up to the hole. It's like the cooler is sitting inside a rectangular tunnel. Then put some fly screen over the hole in the inner plastic guard - this stops any dirt, rocks, crap that fly off the wheel from hitting the back of the cooler.

This means that any air that comes thru the duct must go thru the coller (can;t go around it) and then out the hole. Since the air pressure is greater at the duct than it is inside the wheel well the air will flow thru the cooler in direct proportion to the forward speed of the car.

Hope that explains it

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SydneyKid - what sort of oil temps would warrant an oil cooler??

Now that I've got a front mount intercooler and a thermo fan (FMIC is stopping a bit of air into the engine bay, and the thermo only comes on when the water temp gets up) the oil temps get up to around 90 degrees or so when cruising around at 80-100km/h.

I intend on wrapping the dump pipe in thermo wrap to get under bonnet temps down a bit, maybe that might help???

Roy - sorry for the quick thread hi-jack :P

J

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